Review on Z Threaded Insert Internal Threads Hardware by Henry Hunter

The main result was that I was able to drive 28 EZ-LOC brass inserts into 3/4 inch red oak planks for a garden bench. The first time around, it was VERY difficult to find a method that would a) seat the inserts straight, b) not lift the wood around the insert, and c) allow the insert to stay in the board when the insert tool was removed. I practiced on scraps and put out over a dozen stakes before feeling confident enough to move on to real boards. Tools I used: a) hand drill (if you have and can use a drill for your board size that's a big plus) b) DEWALT DW1720, Brad Point bit set (only works in hardwood) c) WL Fuller 3/8 " Drill Stop (not required for power drill) e) Dowl-it 1000 self-centering dowel template (or other jig to ensure insert is held at a 90 degree angle) f) DCT-T wrench for 1/4" - 20 inserts (or another way to install the insert) The technique I'm going to detail now is for hardwood - in my case, red oak. I haven't tested it with softwood (pine) but I'm pretty sure it needs to be modified for softwood (e.g. top bits are for hardwood and rip softwood fibers instead of cutting them). I understand that this technique includes tools I already have. For example, you can replace the Dowl-it 1000 Self-Centering Jig with something else as I haven't used it for dowels or finding centers of anything. I only used it to hold the T-wrench at a 90 degree angle to the oak board. However, he did a fantastic job at that. If you have a drill you can put a 1/4" screw in the chuck and turn the chuck by hand to set the bit: I saw someone do this on YouTube but I don't have a drill and couldn't do it don't. Whatever you do, you need something to keep the 90 degree angle. That's my technique: You don't need a drill stop for this, you can see that. This is a magic step to prevent the tree from lifting off later when the insert is screwed into the tree. with drill stop in place and drill the rest of the hole. c) Prepare a 90 degree insert driver. For me, this was achieved by attaching my Dowel-it jig to a piece of wood by inserting the T-wrench's shank through a 5/16" hole in the jig (I had to sand the shank a bit, in order to do this) . rotate freely) and attach the 1/4" socket to the end of the T-wrench. d) Insert the socket into the wood 1/2 turn to set the exact position of the jig. e) Clamp the jig onto the board. f ) Using a T-wrench (may require pliers) turn until the bit goes in. g) Unscrew the T-wrench, remove the jig, check that the bit is fully seated, make an additional turn if necessary I know it's difficult, but this technique has given me reproducible results.Also note that the drill diameter I used was 3/8" instead of the 25/64" recommended in the instructions.This made for a good Thread appearance and I had no problem with the wood insert coming out when the T-wrench was reversed/pulled out.