Review on IC3D Natural Nylon Printer Filament by Chris Long

I had to print very thin walls with a radius of 1.5mm. Everything else breaks with too much force, including pla and belly. The first few test prints didn't go that well, but I've had a lot of success with other IC3D products, so I knew it was just adjustments. With my Lulzbot Mini with the .3 attachment, the initial issue was strength, the parts were brittle, easy to break and didn't have the flexibility you'd expect from nylon. On the plus side, unlike a press with no sanding or sanding, the parts looked amazing; They were of perfect quality and size. I changed the cura settings from 240C to 250C and that fixed my problem immediately. Then I noticed that the parts didn't fit that well on the PEI sheet, so I added a 1mm high square outline around the model in addition to the border. with crossing corners. This, along with the 8mm pad and glue stick, held the parts on the bed. On the second print I noticed it was lifting slightly on the right side so I used masking tape to hold the base in place in the middle of the print. The prints turned out perfect. The last issue I encountered was the supports. If Z or X/Y are too close together, it becomes extremely difficult to remove the supports. Nylon is a bit more difficult to sand or file, so I wanted to avoid that extra step if possible. I set the support density to 15% - 20% is fine too. Supports Z-distance up to 0.4. I first tried .1 and it was not possible to remove the support. The XY distance was set to 1.8. I hope my experience helps someone else working with nylon. Depending on the project, nylon has amazing strength and is more likely to bend than break under stress. I'm printing mechanical animatronic eyelids and it's awesome. For the support parts of the base and the eyeball I use ABS as I don't want or need any flexing. In summary, I have found that turning off the nozzle fan on a closed 3D printer at 250°C throughout the print gives the best print results. whole print.