Review on 🔌 Aideepen 1200W 20A DC Converter: Efficient Step-Up Car Power Supply Module 8-60V to 12-83V by Andrew Schobinger

Gee, the special note on that still works. Do not allow full load when the input is on (the input current can rise to 100 amps and the main MOSFET will burn out). Do not set the low voltage protection below 11.2V (see line above). Just because the low voltage protection light is on doesn't mean it's not working at all, just running at a slower speed (less heat). Be sure to use both input terminals for + and - when the output current is high, e.g. B. 10 amps or more (this can melt the input post). ) If you want this to run at maximum DC, replace the heatsink with something twice the size of the board, 200mm x 80mm x 40mm, and use whatever fan you need. I bought 2 of these off ebay and had a problem with them from day one and had to replace the main mosfet 3 times in both after they blew up the 3rd time for no good reason. I threw them away and bought this one, but these 2 taught me a lot about what not to do. I use this on days with little sun to charge my lithium batteries with solar energy. stay cool (under 70°C) and not under load when I turn on the input and set the low voltage to at least 11.2 volts. The standard heatsink is definitely not enough, the main mosfet and other mosfets generate a lot of heat at a constant high current (about 22 amps) and pull heat to the board, heating every single component on the board. So try to keep them the temperature below 70ºC to avoid crashes and small component failures. That's the best advice I can give you. Update 11/11/18 BLOWN Yes, they don't work anymore, these things are absolutely NOT RELIABLE. I got so tired of fixing these things that I put a Schottky diode on the output to prevent reverse current being connected to the battery to charge it. So far the time has been stable but at a loss of 3 ampere charging current, it dropped to 17 ampere max.