🔌 Aideepen 1200W 20A DC Converter: Efficient Step-Up Car Power Supply Module 8-60V to 12-83V Review

properties are good, but I did not use it because there is no common connection between input and output (ideally would be a common negative input and output). For many system architectures this will be a problem. If you don't agree with the input and output being isolated, I don't recommend it.

I liked it while it worked but after only 5 minutes both fuses blew. I disconnected the outside (so no load) and the inside (12V), replaced the 2 15A fuses and connected 12V (on the side) and both fuses blew again (no load). So I can only say that something was wrong with the device. I have issued a return and will buy again to see if it happens again. If all goes well I will update my review.

update: seller sent me a replacement from china as the first block was physically damaged. The replacement is great. Thank you, it works. After assembly and gluing, both inductors fell off the board. The contact points were fine, but the top assemblies (the outer part of the ferrite) were falling off. I will write to the seller about it.

Unpacked and physically inspected for quality and issues. I immediately discovered shorted turns on a toroidal transformer in a switching power supply. The picture says it all. In the first photo, a block with shorted curves. 2 photos correctly installed transformer. I didn't even turn it on as it's possible the windings are still electrically isolated with varnish on the wire (if you look under the core you can see where the solder appears to have leaked. This is an expected one though error…

I have high standards for my drivers. I'm building one of the first battery powered portable stadium lights. 12 V battery, power consumption 1-1.1 kW, brightness 130,000 lumens. This is because it takes 15-18 amps of input current at a time to get my battery voltage (source 11-12.5v) up to 34.8v. This ridiculous requirement is met by these drivers when they actually work. The heatsink side of each is attached to the back of a 6" x 2" aluminum tube and is cooled by a fan. Unfortunately I lost…

All right. The product that I received out of the box appears to be missing several components compared to the photo on the Amazon page. It works, but be sure to test it before turning anything on for the first time. I almost lost the charge monitor when I realized it was getting 19+ volts from the converter. Be careful, check the output voltage before you connect it to anything and adjust beforehand. Luckily the charger didn't have batteries and it still works. A few capacitors are missing and

Gee, the special note on that still works. Do not allow full load when the input is on (the input current can rise to 100 amps and the main MOSFET will burn out). Do not set the low voltage protection below 11.2V (see line above). Just because the low voltage protection light is on doesn't mean it's not working at all, just running at a slower speed (less heat). Be sure to use both input terminals for + and - when the output current is high, e.g. B. 10 amps or more (this can melt the input…