Review on 🚽 Highly Efficient Wayne RPP50 Cast Iron Sewage Pump for Reliable Wastewater Disposal with Piggy Back Tether Float Switch, Black by Ray Gist

Had to replace a 22 year old totally dead pump [Barnes] that only serves a basement bathroom; The check valve has probably not worked for the last 10 years. Obviously it was some dirty work (probably why it's usually recommended to replace it every 10 years or so - BEFORE it dies entirely). Once the old pump and parts have been removed, reinstalling this Wayne pump is very easy. Installed with a Quietsewage "Campbell Mfg Llc 2" check valve, which by the way is a very good device, much better than a rubber valve. After everything was set up and connected, the first test run went great. I am happy with this product and expect it to last as long as a solid iron pump should (if used properly - just stick to the litter and stay away from anything blocking the impeller or stuck in the check valve could stay). DIY PUMP NOTES - You will need a 2" thread adapter to attach the pump to any length of 2" PVC. ---Also consider buying an extra length of tubing and a connection adapter or two. Just in case. Don't stop in the middle of work! - Make sure that the float switch can carry out its work unhindered and with sufficient distance to obstacles. - When using the above check valve, be sure to measure several times; dry landing. Compared to rubber/metal couplings, the margin for error is very small as it requires the use of PVC glue (ie no adjustment is possible after 10 seconds). it works, there's quite a bit of water over it).