Review on ZEKOO 6FT Single Track Bypass Barn Door Hardware Kit, Double Sliding Doors Overlapping For Low Ceiling by Cory Owens

I had originally purchased two 80"x36" slab doors to use with a traditional bypass kit (the kind with a track that mounts to the underside of the top of the opening) for my 80"x72" opening. However, I somehow came across this concept of bypass barn doors in my web surfing and became obsessed with this solution, because I had already replaced two other doors in my house with barn doors.Because the doors I had purchased were only 36" wide they really weren't suited for use with this kit. Knowing that I would lose a lot of inches to overlap, I plotted it all out and calculated that I would need to close up my opening by about 7". I bought a 4x1 (actually 3.5"x3/4") board to mount to the studs across the top of my opening to attach this hardware to so I wouldn't have to worry about lining the holes in the rail up to the studs. I also bought two 6x1s (actually 5.5"x3/4") and mounted those down the sides of my opening, overlapping the wall by 2" each, so they each closed he opening by 3.5", for a total of 7".This plan for the minimum opening width also required me to mount the rollers right up to the edges of my doors, rather than a couple of inches in, as the instructions suggest. With the rollers mounted to the very edges of the door, you will still end up with about 5" of overlap. Thus the need for reducing the opening by 7", so the doors would overlap the "wall" by an inch on either side.I knew I would have to make all of these adjustments going in, since my doors were too narrow, so I am not holding this against the manufacturer at all. However, I did have to take off one star because the bolts to mount the rollers to the door were too long. The specs say this kit can be used on standard 1 3/8" thick doors. That is the normal thickness for any slab doors you buy. But the bolts that I was sent were too long and could not grip the doors tight. I had to make a late-night trip to a big box store to buy some washers to make up for the gap, as you can see in one of my photos. I bought some pretty thick washers and every bolt required two extra (in addition to the two washers that were supplied). The manufacture either needs to provide the correct length bolts to work with 1 3/8" doors or they need to provide additional washers/spacers.If installing on carpet, when you mount the kit 1 11/16" + the door height as instructed, your floor guides will likely not be long enough, since they will compress down into the carpet when screwing into your sub-floor. I had to make two little 1/2" blocks to screw my floor guides into and then screw that whole assembly into the sub-floor. I needed to use some longer wood screws that I had on hand to accomplish this, since the ones provided were not long enough to accommodate the 1/2" blocks.Note: I bought the 6.6FT kit for my 72" opening that I then narrowed to 65" and used two 36" doors. I cut my header board to a length of 80". If you have not already bought your doors, definitely buy a kit and doors that are better suited to the size of your opening so you don't have to make so many modifications.Also, as others have mentioned, the gap between the wall and the outside door is really huge. I was warned, but it was still much bigger than I could have imagined. Luckily my arrangement allowed for the edge of the outside door to just face into a corner, so no one will likely ever notice. But if people were more able to see it from the side-on, the fact that I had so little overlap between the doors and the "wall" would have been a real issue. You would have been able to just look right into the closet by being at a slight angle. I would NOT use this kit for a bathroom or room that requires privacy or sound-proofing. This kit is definitely best suited for closets.