
I bought this to replace the switch on my hard air compressor, it looks the same but many differences. As others have said there are no screw holes for the ground wire, be prepared to either drill and tap or use a small self tapping screw. The plastic lid differs from the original. So if you just want a lid, this won't work. The electrical contacts are smaller, so most likely they won't last long. The aluminum body is not as thick and durable as the original. The 4 bolts holding the aluminum body used regular nuts, not lock washers, the nylon lock nuts originally used with all the vibration from the compressor, chances are these nuts will loosen and the pressure switch will fail. I used nylon locknuts from an old derailleur and they fit. The holes that the wires go through are not as big as the original, I had to drill 2 holes in the switch for the wires to fit. The pressure relief also works differently than the original, in the original the compressor ran for a second then the valve closed giving the engine time to run to full speed, the new switch doesn't, I haven't installed it yet, but I'll update this , as soon as I do. The small pressure relief fitting was also brass on the original, but on this switch it looks like an alloy. Be careful, this will not be a quick easy replacement due to some differences. Also for recording, at 120V you only need a pass-through pin, it's hot (black wire). I plan to put the neutral wire (white wire) under the same screw and save the other set of pins for later use.

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