Review on Premium 14-Inch Flat Drywall Trowel With High-Strength Handle And Triple-Hardened Stainless Steel Blade For Sheetrock, Gyprock, Wall-Board, And Plasterboard - Model 4-962 By LEVEL5 by Zach Clements

tHE DESCRIPTION OF THIS TROWEL IS VERY UNCLEAR AND AFTER READING THE COMMENTS, AND THOSE WHO HAVE SAID THEY HAVE DONE DRYWALL FOR 20 PLUS YEARS, I NOW KNOW WHY I SEE SO MANY STRUGGLE. i CAN'T EVEN WORD THE QUESTION PROPERLY TO GET THE ANSWER I NEED SO I FIGURED THIS MAY HELP MANY OTHERS. DRYWALL EDGES LENGTH WISE HAS A CONCAVE SECTION APPROX. 2" WIDE ON EVERY 4' PIECE. CALLED THE "FLATS". THE 4' WIDTH PART IS CALLED THE "BUTT" THESE ARE NOT CONCAVED. THEY ARE THE SAME THICKNESS AS THE VERY MIDDLE OF THE SHEET. a TRUE DRYWALL TROWEL HAS A CAMPHOR, LIKE A SNOW SKI. IF YOU SET IT ON A FLAT SERVIDE LIKE A COUNTER TOP, DEPENDING ON THE LENGTH OF THE TROWEL YOU CAN SLIDE A PIECE OF CARDBOARD, OR SAY 2 QUARTERS STACKED ON EACH OTHER, UNDER THE VERY MIDDLE OF THE TROWEL. THIS IS FOR THE FLATS, AND BUTT JOINTS. TAPE WITH A 6"KNIFE, NOT A TROWEL. TROWELS COME IN DIFFERENT LENGTHS. 10" , 10.5" 12" , 14", & 16". i LOVE MY 16". THE MIDDLE SIZE TROWELS ARE USED FOR THE 2ND COAT. CONSTANT PRESSURE IN, PLENTY OF MUD, NUMEROUS PASSES UNTIL A VERY SMOOTH FINISH. wORKING THE AIR BUBBLES OR DRY COMPOUND ETC. DRY OVER NIGHT. IF YOU USE THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF MUD, YOU WILL LEAVE SOME BEHIND AT BOTH ENDS OF THE TROWEL. NOT EVERYTIME, WHEN YOU GET THE AMOUNT JUST RIGHT. IT DOESN'T MATTER, USE YOUR 6" KNIFE AND CLEAN IT UP. PUT MORE PRESSURE AWAY FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE SEAM, AND YOU WILL REMOVE ANY RIDGE. I USE THE 12" TROWEL FOR THIS AND THE 10.5 FOR MY OUTSIDE CORNERS. THIRD COAT, EITHER THE 14 OR 16" TROWEL. REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS. PRESSURE IN MAKING NUMEROUS PASSES TO SMOOTH OUT. REMOVE ANY COMPOUND THAT SNEAKS OUT AT THE ENDS OF THE TROWEL. NOW THE BUTTS. YOU HAVE 2 PIECES THE SMAE THICKNESS BUTTING EACH OTHER AND YOUR ADDING DRYWALL COMPOUND AND DON'T WANT TO SEE ANY BUILT UP LUMP. FIRST TRY AND AVOID TOTAL BUTTS WHEN HANGING. MAKE YOUR SEAMS FALL OVER DOORS OR WINDOWS IN THE MIDDLE. BEST NOT TO BREAK AT THE CORNERS. TRIMMING, YOU WILL HAVE A LARGER THAN NORMAL WALL THICKNESS, RIGHT AT THE POINT WHERE YOUR TRIM BUTTS EACH OTHER. WHEN YOU HAVE A FULL 4' BUTT, I USE MY 12" TROWEL AND DO MY 2ND COAT RIGHT AFTER i TAPE IT. NO WAIT. DON'TAPPLY AS MUCH PRESSURE. uSE YOUR 6" KNIFE TO ADD A LITTLE TO THE OUTSIDES OF THE MUD. ON THE 3RD COAT, I USE MY 14 OR 16" AND HIT BOTH SIDES OF THE BUTT SEAM, MIDDLE OUT. NOW I'M OUT 32" REMOVE RIDGES ON THE OUTER AREAS. BECAUSE THERE WAS MUD APPLIED WHEN YOU TAPED, THE 3RD COAT WILL DRY SOONER PULLING THE WATER INTO THE DRY COMPOUND. I THEN USR MY 16" DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE BUTT WITH A FAIR OUT OF PRESSURE, AND MY 6" TO FEATHER THAT INTO WHAT I HAVE THERE FROM THE NED COAT. REMEMBER I MADE 2 PASSES ONE ON EACH SIDE. NOW I'M ABOUT 32 " WIDE, AND FEATHERED OUT. THE LAST COAT THE I ALREADY STATED GOES RIGHT UP THE MIDDLE OF THE BUTT. THE MUD GOES ANOTHER AO" OR SO BEYOND THAT ON BOTH SIDES. USE YOUR 6" KNIFE AGAIN LIKE YOUR SKIM COATING A WALL, AT THE EDGES OF YOUR OAST PAST WITH 16" TROWEL AND AT THE OUTSIDE OF THE DOUBLE PASS YOU MADE ON THE SECOND COAT. SO NOW YOUR BUTT JOINT IS ABOUT 3 FT. WIDE, AND FEATHERED TO A FLAT SURFACE. YOU CAN REMOVE SMALL RIDGES WITH YOUR KNIFE, AND SKIM ANY AREA'S YOU FEEL NEED TOUCHING UP. YOU CANNOT DO THIS WITH A PLASTERING TROWEL. YOU CAN, BUT DOING A WHOLE HOUSE WITH THE WRONG TROWELS IS A NIGHTMARE. PLASTERING TROWELS ACTUALLY WITH HAVE A SMALL UPWARD TURN SO IT DOESN'T DIG INTO THE PLASTER OR COMPOUND. THE DRYWALL ROWEL IS SHAPED LIKE A C, EXAGGERATION YES. SO THE ITEM DESCRIPTION FOR THIS TROWEL IS NOT CLEAR. TWO DIFFERENT TOOLS COMPLETELY. oFTEN WHEN I'M DOING ANY PLASTERING OR SKIP TROWELING A CEILING I USE A POOL TROWEL. THE ENDS OF THE TROWEL ARE ROUND OR OVAL. THE SHAPE OF THE TOWEL IS FLAT OR EVEN SLIGHTLY TURNED AWAY FROM THE SURFACE YOUR WORKING ON. THE POOL TROWEL ALSO COMES IN A 10 AND 14". MY DAYS PUSHING ON A 14" TO SKIP TROWEL A CEILING ARE IN THE REARVIEW. i USE THE LARGER WITH 2 HANDS IF I'M REALLY WORKING A PLASTER WALL AND WANT IT LIKE GLASS. SPRAYING WITH WATER AND REALLY RUBBING IT OUT, SAME AS FINISHING CRETE. jUST ON THE WALL. I WOULD BE HESITANT TO BUY THESE TROWELS OR ANY ONLINE. KIND OF LIKE A HAMMER OR HOCKEY STICK, IT HAS TO FEEL RIGHT. TRYING TO PLASTER WITH A DRYWALL TROWEL WILL ALWAYS BE A FIGHT. A BIG WASTE OF TIME. LOOK DOWN THE TROWEL IF IT'S BOWED UP TOWARDS THE HANDLE IT'S FOR DRYWALL. IT ITS FLAT ITS FOR PLASTERING. A 12" FLAT PLASTERING TROWEL WORKS GREAT FOR SKIP TROWELING. THERE IS STILL A TENDENCY TO STILL CATCH YOUR CORNERS, SO DUE TO AGE I HAVE GONE TO THE POOL TROWEL SHAPE. AND USE IT FOR PLASTERING ALSO. I USE THE LONGER ONE WHEN I'M FINISHING THE BOTTOM OF A CONCRETE TABLE, OR FOR THE TOP IF ITS A IN PLACE POUR. SORRY FOR THE LONG SCRIP, HOPE THIS HELPS MANY.