Review on 🪚 3M Stikit P220A Sheet Abrasive: 02594 by Eric Wohlman

I use 3M Stikit Gold on a flat granite master plate to level plane soles and to resharpen the primary bevel on planes and chisels. I also use it to line the backs of planes and chisels, but it takes extra care and proper technique not to "duplicate" the edges of the plane or chisel (more on that later). The coarser 80 grit is used when I need to quickly remove a lot of material and is the coarsest grit offered in the Stikit Gold line. It can quickly remove metal when needed. For leveling flat soles, I usually first test the flatness of the sole in the 120-220 grit range and then go back to 80 grit if the surface is too far off flat to remove the material more quickly. On new planes that are fairly flat, I use 220 grit as a first pass and often that's enough, and then I use 400 or 500 grit as a final pass to remove the scratches. However, old vintage aircraft always require such aggressive exposure. Note. I use both a 2 3/4" wide stikit and a 4 1/2" wide stikit depending on what size aircraft I'm leveling. 2 3/4" is too narrow. For planes #5 and under, 2 3/4" works best. I've tried other methods and other brands of sticky sandpaper to smooth plane soles, but Stikit worked the best. Plane #8 You will need a longer block of granite and aligning larger planes can take a lot more effort. The advantage of Skitit is that it can be used many times. The adhesive sticks just enough for you to easily pull it out when you're done, and then re-stick in place several times. Other sticky papers I've tried stick too well and removing will destroy the paper, rendering it unusable after a single use .Also other methods such as SC grit are too messy and impractical for large planing irons, the sandpaper method is great for quick metal removal and the 80 grit is recommended Regrinding the entire facet grind Depending on the type and width of the blade, I'll start with 80 or 120 grit, but sometimes also 150 or 220 for very narrow blades or very soft steel. Since I shoot less material, I usually start with 150 or 220 chisels - unless the chisel has a big scratch, then I can fall back to 80 grit paper. The edge needs cleaning, I will be using this 220 grit as a first step before moving on to the waterstones. when my 400 Sigma or 320 Cerax isn't going fast enough and the rear end needs serious removal. And in many cases, that 220 grit is coarse enough to start leveling. There are times when I buy an antique plane or chisel and it needs to be leveled with sandpaper as it is badly deformed. Most modern irons/chisels are flat enough to start working with stone. A NOTICE. Special care and technique are required when straightening and planing/sanding the back, especially from 80 grit. Do this slowly and apply even pressure to the blade and make straight/steady movements. Don't frantically move the blade back and forth with uneven pressure - you'll regret it when you move on to the stones to start back polishing. What happens with poor technique is that you round and bevel (duplicate) the edges and cause more work, and you also get uneven cuts that are deeper in places and put a lot more work into the stones. Sandpaper to continue with the finer metal removal and work your way up with the Watersone sand until you get a good mirror finish on the back or a mirror bevel. After switching to 400 grit sandpaper, you can switch to something like Cerax 320 or SP 400 stone to continue leveling or beveling. I hope this helps anyone who is considering trying sandpaper for faster metal removal when the situation calls for it. For more information and videos of Stikit Gold in action visit lie-nielsen.com - Lee Nielsen also uses the Stikit for initial bevel setting and there are some good videos of Stikit Gold in action. They also sell Stikit Gold. Highly recommended, thanks for reading!