I am new to candle making and my first try failed. When I first used this wax, my candles were dull and cracked. They also had funnels and had some glass adhesion issues. The second time has improved a lot! My candle tips are smooth as glass and hold up well. I noticed that pouring at a lower temperature resulted in smoother candle tips, and preheating my jars ensured perfect adhesion to the glass. it was good and the cold cast was excellent. They burned very well and evenly (no tunneling) and I got over 10 hours of burn time from a 3 ounce can. I've tried different sizes of jars (3oz, 4oz, 6oz, 8oz) and they all worked very well. I recommend using cans that are fully open at the top (instead of cans that shrink at the top) if you want to get a good heat stroke. I have also tested and used HTP-104 wicks with all of these glasses and there was no tunneling or fungus and there was strong flame. Here are the consumables I used and tips for making beautiful soy candles: Jars (from Hobby Hall) - HTP 104 wicks - Metal candle wick centering jig - Wick sticker - 1 ounce fragrance oil - 1/4 block dye 170 degrees ) .- I used the double boiler method and brought the wax to 185 degrees. Once it was completely smooth and melted I added my color. I stirred and removed from the heat. DO NOT LET HEAT EXCEED 185°C. While the wax was cooling I prepped the jars by centering the wicks with stickers. Be sure to squeeze and hold the base of the wick so it sticks for about 10 seconds. - Gently but firmly pull the wick until it is perfectly straight and adjust with the centering jig. - I'll let the wax cool. to about 130 degrees, then I added my flavoring and stirred for about a minute - I poured in about 125 degrees. Pour into glasses slowly and evenly to avoid air bubbles. Try to get an even pour and don't let it splash or touch the walls. You don't need a dirty looking candle! To ensure you have smooth tips I stopped about 1/4" from the tips and left the rest of the wax in the pot. Once the candles had set I poured a second time to fill them up and make sure that the surface is smooth. If you notice indentations or cracks, you can clean them with a heat gun and poke the holes with a chopstick to make sure the hot wax filled them. *** I didn't need a second fill this time. As a result a smooth surface was obtained from a filling. I think if you pour at a lower temperature there will be less frost/cracks/voids. Expected. If the wax in the pan hardens, just heat it in a water bath, pour the Rest in a paper cup or bowl and discard. Use a paper towel to clean the pot for pouring! Don't rub the pot! Pour the wax into the sink.
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