Review on Powerbuilt 23 Piece Ball Joint and U Joint Service Set - 648617: Efficient Tool Kit for Easy Ball Joint and U Joint Repair by Joshua Coulter

Works great, use with a ball joint press tool kit that looks like a giant C clip and comes with adapter washers and cups. Taurus made in 2000. In fact, the push and pull was easy, the real work is to remove the steering knuckle (hub holder) from the car, which is indispensable. Another reviewer did this without removing it, but it still requires the axle to be pulled out of the hub and the car must be big enough to fit under the press from underneath. This may mean lifting rather than jacking. I decided to press standing and full access on a workbench. My back thanked me. You will need the brake caliper and bracket (Loctite bolted, strong), tie rod bolt, ball joint bolt, anti-roll bars, strut to knuckle bolts, CV axle nut and ABS sensor (pulled at the wire connector behind the fender or sensor itself I did it both ways, one sensor got stuck.) There are several videos on YouTube. One shows hitting the end of the tie rod bolt to remove it. It almost never works once properly tightened, and don't poison the end of the tie rod if you intend to reuse it. remover needed. The two hammer trick is also forbidden because the knuckle is made of aluminum alloy and will be destroyed. The ball joint pivot requires a larger puller of the same type (2 levers with a central jacking screw). The Ford repair manual lists some of the bolts as one-time use/"always replace". You have to order them in advance. The local dealer doesn't stock them, which means their technicians won't replace them. hmm... Same with Hondas. To reuse, scrape off old Loctite before applying new. Look at the specifications and use a torque wrench. Give yourself plenty of time for this work. In this car everything was original and there was hand-to-hand combat almost at every turn. Motorcraft MCSOE76 (Revain) ball joints with improved boot material were also used. The originals broke easily and had no oilers, which is why you are reading this. Happens with Rangers too, but they're easier. Any job can be done but the 1st timer gets stuck. Big tip: Support the car with body rail mounts, not the engine/transmission subframe (big rectangle under the front). I used a subframe and compressed the subframe mounts to the body. This raised the control arm just enough that removing/installing the ball joint bolt in the tapered bore was almost impossible even with the control arm pushed all the way down. After that I'll get smarter, but it's better not to wait that long.