This is a brilliant little tool IF you can get it to work on both the high and low side AC power connectors on your particular car. Then it's worth the cost. I have a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 LT and my problem was that the original GM high pressure valve for this (and many other GM vehicles) does not have a "Schrader" type valve core, it has a rubber ball/plug type core . Repairing a leaking/damaged valve requires draining all refrigerant and replacing the entire valve on the high pressure side. But there is also good news. Dorman makes a replacement that uses a "Schrader" core (Dorman 800-955) instead of the "rubber ball" core used in the original GM equipment for this car and I have now confirms that this tool WILL FIT/WORK ON BOTH ports after you have replaced the original valve with a Dorman valve. Even if using a Schrader core on a high pressure side valve results in more frequent core failures (as some users/reviewers are suggesting), you now have this handy tool to easily swap out one or both cores without having to remove your refrigerant whenever you find a leak in one of the ports. I have also confirmed that the removal tool on the end of the piston on this unit fits and rotates both valve cores (both the same size despite the larger valve port diameter on the high pressure side) and both cores go through the center tube of this thing if you use it for the use for the intended purpose. A note here. Avoid over-tightening the quick connector in the middle of the tool. It will not seal/leak coolant reliably unless hand tightened, and if you use a wrench or otherwise overtighten it, the rubber washer/gasket it mates with in the center of the tool may bulge inward and narrow the hole. the passage through which the removed valve core must pass on its way to the end of the removal/replacement tool. The last two points. The same things that make this tool great (e.g. you can use it to replace a leaking valve core without having to pump all the refrigerant out of your air conditioner) also limit its functionality. For example, what's holding the valve core on the end of the piston when you pull it out through the tool's center tube is pressurized coolant pushing it up from the bottom. If there is no pressure in the system, you can use a common (and much cheaper) tool to remove/replace your core. It also takes a bit of practice and skill to get the plunger tip onto the valve properly. Kern because you "blind" this part without seeing the end of the tool actually entering the valve. Tried it out a few times on a spare valve before installing it just to get used to the "feel" of the tool going through the valve hole and sitting on the core. All it takes is a light touch and a bit of practice/patience and you will eventually have no problem figuring out when the removal tool is properly seated on your valve core.
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