Review on 🔧 Enhance your Tool Efficiency with the POWERTEC UT1002 Universal Tool Stand by Charles Mistretta

I bought this table for my 90 lb drill press. Having assembled the table using the included hardware, I now understand the importance of the reviewer's advice that recommended purchasing hex head screws. While it's possible to use the included Phillips head screws, and with the right (large, like #3) screwdriver you can get enough torque to actually tighten the screws, the task would be much easier, quicker, and better with hex head screws. So you can use a socket wrench on the head side and a wrench on the nut side. My additional suggestion: Use 24 short hex screws and 48 1/4" washers to securely attach the tabletop to the long steel rails. Why? The top of the MDF has four pre-drilled holes on each of the short ends, for which eight screws and eight washers are supplied. There are only two screws (one on each side) that attach the long rails to the top. If all the rails were flush it wouldn't be very good, but it wouldn't be as bad as it is now: because the short ( top) rails are mounted to rest on the long front and rear rails, the table top may not sit flush on long rails. The gap is approximately 1/32". The manufacturer only provided these two screws and four washers to attach the top pieces to the long rails so two washers fill the gap under the rails and then two washers and bolt en to go through the rails and bottom washers to the MDF (see first photo). This leaves about 18" on each front and back rail with a 1/32" gap between the top of the rail and the bottom of the MDF boards. See issue? Aside from the inevitable stress and deformation of the unsupported top plates that can be caused by more weight, it misses an opportunity to make the whole structure really stiff, presumably to save $2 on bolts and washers. I got 20 hex head screws and a box of washers, then pre-drilled 18 additional holes on the underside of the MDF boards along the front and back, then fastened them securely and securely (Photo 3). efforts. On the photos you can compare the original single screw and washer and then retrofit with 20 screws. I also moved the two original front and rear bolts to short end rails. The rest of the setup was instructive. I think if I built a second one it would run about 4 times faster. The instructions were pretty good and used real English. I would appreciate additional advice from the manufacturer regarding mounting methods. but it was good. Of course, follow the instructions to NOT tighten the rail and leg bolts until you are ready to attach the top plates. I'm not light and this table supports me without bending or squeaking. Now that the top is taut I don't have to worry that it can easily handle a 90 pound press that weighs less than half what I do. A list of tools isn't included, so here's mine: A giant Phillips screwdriver (if you're using the included screws) or a 1/4" ratchet wrench and socket to fit the recommended aftermarket hex head screws. A small adjustable crescent wrench might have been used, but I didn't think of that.) Rubber mallet or plastic hammerless mallet to "push" rails and supports into alignment during assembly. Hand drill and 1/8" drill bit for pilot drilling. Drilling additional top screws. An idea just before finally tightening the screws. It seemed like my stand frame was a little crooked when I put in the bottom panels as a final step. Final word: the included nuts have nylon fuse links (locknuts) so this didn't help It looks like lock washers are probably essential but I was wrong I did before :) If I added a few extra bolts and before reassembling If I had to fetch washers from the store I could also buy a couple of dozen lock washers Ten cents for the dollar Yes I would buy it again knowing what I know now With the right tools and some inexpensive hardware upgrades you can turn it into a good, reliable product.