Well where do I start. IM "style" air hose plug with external thread. The connector that comes with it is so irregularly shaped that it doesn't fit my compressor's 3/8 female IM jack. I've attached a picture of a good IM connector alongside so you can see the difference. An additional problem is that the Calvan kit connector threads are also non-standard. So you can't just go to the big store to buy another 3/8 plug. Rather than threading in something like 5/16, I had to go to a hardware store to buy a female and male threaded sleeve so I could use a standard 3/8 male IM connector. [Tap, reamer and guide] Nothing to complain about here. The quality is just as good (or bad) as the rest of the kit. I had no trouble installing the guide rail or piercing the soft aluminum. There should be an E-Clio on the groove on the faucet to keep it from falling into the cylinder, but it's not included so it's another trip to the store. There is also a bit of confusion with the instructions. Sweep depth instructions update: I got the instructions on how to extend to the first line after a mechanic on YouTube. Unfortunately, this is the wrong approach for me. I contacted Calvan and they said you MUST drill all the way until the reamer is stopped by the pin. It was my fault for following someone else's directions, but since the directions on the box don't say so either, I won't remove or add stars. Your instructions only say "drill", not "drill until you stop at the pin". I'm only giving them an extra star for good communication/email support. [Last but not least, Embeds] When I saw this, I knew I was going to be in trouble. I'm no machinist, but I can clearly see how poorly finished the threads on the inserts are. Of the 8 inserts, only 2 had a relatively clean and pointed V-thread on the outside. The remaining 6 inserts had horribly flat edges, making them unusable. Of the two "good" sockets, only one had clean threads on the inside of the socket where the spark plug was supposed to screw in. The instructions also say you need to use threadlocker, but it's not included in the kit. I knew this beforehand but I'm just pointing out that they can't include it due to the high price this kit brings. To be honest, the kit allowed me to "fix" my car, so I can't give it a star. The high price/complete lack of quality control/poor workmanship/headaches from the rest of the kit detracts from the extra 4 stars. I dare not say, but even the one in some cargo shop could probably match this kit in terms of quality. I don't know if I can recommend it as there aren't many repair options for these Triton engines. I just wanted everyone to know what they're paying for. A few tips: Buy an endoscope, cheap USB powered endoscopes can be found on Amazon for $10~$30. 5/8 inch. Purchase red high-temp threadlock to secure the threads and JB Weld to seal the top of the hat. Buy a cheap air gun with a thin, long probe, but also drill a hole in the side of the probe. When drilling, chips inevitably get into the cylinder. You blow them out, but some stick to the cylinder wall. Drilling a tiny hole in the side of the probe will help shake more chips off the wall so they can be blown out.
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