Review on 🌲 SainSmart Wood LightBrown 3D Printer Filament: A High-Quality Light Solution for Precision Printing by Ayush Bonuccelli

, I just started 3D printing. Aside from the free filament that came with my printer, this is the only filament experience I've had and it definitely was! Everything started well. I printed a small job that only took about an hour and it turned out great. Then I started to print much larger - 10 hours after 12 hours of work I suddenly heard a "click" from my new printer. I immediately saw the feed stepper slip - the filament had enough grooves from the feed gear and didn't slip, but the stepper couldn't push it anymore. Checked the injector - nothing comes out! So I stopped printing and started figuring out what went wrong. After two more print attempts (small jobs only) I came to the conclusion that this is definitely a thread. While performing Atomic Purge on my nozzle, I also ran a melt test and found that the material extruded cleanly at 200 degrees. There's no reason to run hotter as it increases the likelihood of heat leakage. And when I disconnected my hot end and Bowden tube I had a small speck of blackened molten material that I squeezed out. Who was back in the tube, but I'll leave it. This could be related to my efforts to clean the nozzle. From what I've read tiny wood particles tend to collect in the nozzle and when they do collect the nozzle suddenly stops pushing out. It's not a timing issue, it's a particle issue. I've found that I can use the feed command to push the filament out until it stops curling while trying to roll back onto the nozzle and come out clean and then resume printing, but of course there's no exact way , calculate when the nozzle is clogged. again, except to sit and flush the nozzle regularly! I've found that 0.5mm or 0.6mm nozzles should be used to prevent clogging and of course that makes sense. The 0.5 mm nozzle has a 25% larger diameter. This means an orifice of 0.19mm compared to 0.12mm for a 4mm nozzle, or a whopping 58% more orifice! It would be helpful if the companies that sell all these different particle filaments mentioned that a larger nozzle might be the easiest way to get reliable prints, rather than having people wandering around the desert trying to do this through one Compensate for reductions in flow and velocity, resulting in consistent pressure. slow printing. The resulting print looks fine to me. There are no problems with this. I'll order some larger nozzles and see if that fixes the problem and I'm pretty sure it will. As for the comments about higher temperatures giving a darker color, this will of course happen as wood ignites at the same temperature as paper. - 233 degrees C. This explains why people report blackened, "burned" material clogging the nozzle. For this reason, I would advise printing with wood filament at the lowest possible temperature. Once the material has melted, it has maximum bond strength.