Review on Bilstein 24 186674 Front Shock Ford by Jose Miller

These shock absorbers make a world of difference to the handling and ride of a 2015 4WD F250. This keeps the suspension working and not the whole car just shaking up and down over small bumps and potholes in the road. The tires stay in contact with the road, the suspension moves, you and the seat stay still, what a concept! OEM shocks don't move even after compression, too bad. You will need an 18mm wrench or socket for the lower shock mount bolts and a 21mm open ended socket, a box or socket for the upper bracket nut and a 20mm adjustable wrench for the stem bolt on the top bracket. Once the old shock absorbers are removed you will need a 19mm open end nut head or Bilstein top and hold the shaft from moving with a hex wrench. In my experience I don't really need this, but you might want to. Check the top of the shaft, you'll see a hex hole there, I think it was 6mm but don't get me wrong. Forget about jacking up, removing tires, etc. It's not necessary and much safer to have the wheels on the ground while you're underneath. If you need some space I ran the wheel I was working on over 2x12 and it gave me a bit of headroom to work with. I didn't want to mess with jacks and jacks and all. Not necessary. Just rotate the handlebars away from the side you're working on and you've got plenty of room. The only problem is that after attaching the lower shock mounts with an 18mm OEM bolt/nut, you have to compress the shock about 3 inches to fit the upper mounting hole. For this job I used a regular ratchet strap. a hook on the chassis just below the lower shock absorber mount on the truck, and after adjusting the length of the belt, I put the upper hook on the upper shock absorber rubber bushing and washer (the lower one is already installed, the upper ones are installed after the damper is natural built-in). At this point you simply turn the ratchet on the belt until the damper is compressed a few inches and slide the shaft under the mounting hole, release the ratchet and the damper pops in. Put on the top sleeve and washer, tighten the 19mm nut and voila! If the shaft rotates while you are tightening this nut, use the hex wrench mentioned previously to hold the shaft in place. Your truck is better now. Also, simply tighten the top nut until the bushing fills or slightly overhangs the washer, roll the bushing down and flatten. If unsure, check the OEM location to see how tight this nut is. Have fun driving!