Review on Premium Polymaker PA6 CF Filament Carbon: High-Quality 1.75mm by Keegan Herbert

I read some of the reviews here and was a bit overwhelmed but they don't match the YouTube reviews which are incredibly detailed and enthusiastic about this filament. tries. The parts I used this on are intake bushings on an RV8. It's a two-seat, 220-mile plane with 3D-printed sleeves right up front. I wasn't at all sure if the 3D printed material would hold up. The first material I tried was NylonX. After a month of struggling with 4 spools, countless calls and emails to tech support, they finally decided their material just couldn't produce a part that large without significant warping. It's a 20 hour print with a 0.8mm nozzle which applies a lot of material and the nylon warped everywhere. The pieces are 9" long, 6" wide and 2.5" high. Hollow in the center. The perfect recipe for the chain. We heated the bed to 115C, heated the torso to 60C, Garolith, with and without Magigoo PA, 30mm brim, raft. It just warped like crazy no matter what we did. Tech support finally gave up, they said it was too much nylon for too long. I was, disappointed to say the least considering how much i spent getting this shit to work there is a reason they only sell it on their website and not here where it can be viewed it is built to last, but doesn't print anything large. So I looked for something other than nylon and came across the Priline carbon fiber polycarbonate here with great reviews. One of my favorite YouTube channels had a rave review of this CoPA thread and warp with complete indifference. It has too better heat resistance than priline and since I was after test fl Since ügen was open to redesigning parts, I ordered a CoPa coil to try it out. but after the NylonX fiasco, I had no hope. Prylin sits here and waits. The problem with priline is that I correctly understand its softening point. It's just too close to be comfortable, not that there's ever been a problem. I just wanted something with a little more wiggle room. Not only did I print this NYLON without any body heat whatsoever, I had a 45 degree bed, I used magigoo PA on Garolite and NO BRIM. Super printed. Twice. I'm shocked. Today these two parts flew for the first time without any problems. They don't mind the heat. It's hard to believe this material and NylonX are nylons considering NylonX is a big pain and CoPA is a no-brainer. Technical support is not required. No crazy preparation, extreme heat, or anything weird. It prints like PLA. I take it back, my PLA prints on a hotter surface than this material. That's incredible. It's not as stiff as NylonX but I suspect the Polymaker Pa6-CF is the same and cheaper. I don't really need that stiffness in my application, but I'm tempted to order some PA6-CF just to try it out. When it prints something like CoPA with carbon fiber. Get out. :-) As for the reviews here saying this material is brittle, has no layer adhesion, etc, it just hit 220mph on the leading edge of an airplane with the propeller turning at a half inch. Fragile? no Not even close. Now it was brittle when I tried to cold print it. I have a hardened 0.8mm nozzle (nylon requirement) so I usually have to be at the top of the temperature range as hardened steel doesn't transfer heat like brass and I push the filament 4x more than myself 0 nozzle moves. 4mm. . At 260°C my typical half bridge support test broke easily and the skirt didn't stick together. That got me thinking. Reprinted at 270. voila. Strong, excellent adhesion, minimal tension, supports immediately peel off when printed with a z-distance equal to twice the layer height. I also printed the part in Polymaker's PC-Max as it also gets rave reviews. He had a deformity. Not what NylonX had, but not by much. Compared to CoPA. I see no reason to use PC-Max other than cost. For this application, I'm sticking with an additional Vikat CoPA softening point of 60°C. With ZERO WARP! If cost doesn't scare you and you're looking for durable nylon parts that can handle heat and still print without warping, you've just found your filament. Please full metal hotend. You must heat this material or print very slowly. I have an E3D V6 on a CR-10 V2 and it couldn't be better.