🧲 PUENGSI IAC Idle Air Control Valve IACV 16022P8AA03 - Compatible with 3.0L 3.2L 3.5L Honda & Acura V6 - 1997-2003 Models - With Gasket Included Review

I tended to the races in my Honda van. Part as expected with gasket, easy to assemble and at a very good price. About a third of what you could buy at an auto parts store. Received in 2 days, everything is fine.

Straight fit however mine was defective from the start. Idle remained at the level of 1500-2000 rpm and MIL immediately caught fire. Unfortunately I installed after the return period had expired. My opinion is don't waste your money on the aftermarket IACV. This is the second (from different manufacturers) I've tried. I finally found an original Honda for about $200 and it worked as it should.

This product is a waste of money! From the moment of installation, the car began to work worse than the old IAC. I can understand the bad part sometimes, but I received 2 identical boxed items from 2 different sources and got the same output from both. Crazy erratic idle and IAC every time! Bought the best brand and it works like a champ! I wonder if it's marked for v6 but it's for 4 cyl.

This product has been giving me a headache for over a month! I replaced the original idle control valve on my Honda Pilot with this one. After the replacement, my car would not idle properly and was throwing error codes for an idle control circuit failure. After over a month of troubleshooting I have traced this back to replacing the ICV. I was able to disassemble and clean my original valve. The car works great now. Spend the money on one at the dealer or have your original overhauled!

This part is used on all V-6 Honda vehicles to control idle speed. It worked great on my Acura (Honda). It's pretty easy to install. Just make sure you bleed the cooling system when you fill up, or you'll end up with an air bubble in the idle control that won't make it work. Unless you are using a dedicated coolant filter, leave the radiator cap open while the engine is idling (cold starting). Firmly squeeze the radiator hoses to release any trapped air.

After getting the IAC, I disassembled the engine compartment for about an hour and a half to get to the old one. I bled the throttle body until it squeaked, made sure my rubber gasket was seated properly, put everything back together and started the engine, it jumped between 1200 and 1500 rpm so I replaced the intake manifold gaskets, put everything back together, so there was absolutely no change. That two-hour job turned into 10 days tomorrow morning. I will remove the IAC and send it back to

Let me save you the trouble. If you have a 2001 or 2002 that uses a traditional throttle body (which means you can see the throttle cables going to the throttle body), THIS WILL NOT WORK. save your money The resistance value is outside the acceptable range for our particular ECM/PGM-FI system. When installed, you still get too high revs and insane idle fluctuations between 900-1500 rpm. Believe me. Bought, installed, problem persists. Spend a little more for an original Honda/Denso block. After