🔌 HYCLAT 2-4 Gauge Battery Quick Connect/Disconnect Wire Harness Plug: Efficient Connector for Recovery Winch, Trailer, Motors - Pack of 2, Gray Review

Very good product! I can see it's gonna take forever I'm taking off a star because it's not easy to assemble. I'm not sure how a 4 gauge wire could be crimped. I tried it with a sledgehammer and a vise. No way. The solution was to place the ends in a vise, drill 5/16 holes, one on each side, offset from each other, and then screw in some short, very thin head screws. It definitely worked really well and I can always take them off and use them again in the future!

Good value for money (Anderson is significantly more expensive) and I have a feeling they will work well for a long time. I ordered a second hardwire kit for my truck, as well as a kit that I used to make portable winch cables. The terminal lugs provided are of good quality and are ready to be fluxed and soldered and then simply snapped into blocks. What's nice is that they're easy to pull out with a screwdriver if you accidentally plug the wrong wire into the wrong spot on the connector block…

Reliable, well built and inexpensive. Bought a car radio. This allows me to quickly detach the amp and speakers if I need space in the trunk. Make sure you have the correct crimping tool for the connectors. Otherwise use good solder and a butane torch. I myself used the soldering method. Strip and tin the wire, then heat the pin in a vise or clamp and partially fill it with solder. Keeping the heat on the pin, insert the tinned wire. Remove the heat and hold the wire until the solder hardens…

I use these to connect directly to the battery to run a 1000w inverter. Really well done. The process of attaching it to the wire is a bit painful. They appear to be aluminum so after a few tries I couldn't use normal soldering methods. The crimp was insane, they are incredibly tough. My typical single point crimp tool that I often use on 4 gauge didn't even leave a mark. I ended up using the fender on a large set of breaker rods with a 3" cheat rod and it still took a lot of effort! And as a…

So far these are good options but I couldn't help but wonder why they resemble Anderson's popular BMC2S connectors (black) but with a small difference that prevents using 2 together. I ended up replacing the battery connector with this connector as well as the other side I wanted to use to connect to the battery. So far, so good. I'm just glad it comes with two connectors as I had to use the second one. I will add pictures showing the difference to the BMC2S (black) for those who might be…

That's great. I have used them to disconnect the outboard more safely as the disconnect switch is located in the fuel chamber and any exposed contacts pose an arc/fire/explosion hazard. crimped without hydraulic crimping, but simply bent the wire twice (bending the stripped area in half), heated the socket with a torch, and then poured solder into the excess space until it was filled. Works perfectly. Just one annoying (very annoying) thing: wire lines. The tethers on the protective caps (which

I bought two of these for my solar system to quickly disconnect the PV panels from the charge controller and then the charge controller from the inverter. Wire diameters are 10 AWG and 6 AWG respectively. I clamped Anderson's nickel-plated brass fittings in a vise, half-filling them with solder while heating them with a Harbor Fright mini-torch. I then inserted the stripped wire into the heater plug as I inserted it. This provided an excellent connection to a stinger without the need for…