Makita D 21521 8 1 4 Inch Blade Review

Don't let the "8 minus 1/4" description fool you, it's actually "8 plus 1/4" in diameter. With this blade I'm getting the greatest depth of cut from my Makita MGA5008. I have raw floorboards that are 3" to 3.5" thick, on round stringers 4" x 6" and 8" and I need the maximum depth of cut I can get. At "Standard" 7.25" saws/blades require 2 or more cuts per cut. With this saw and blade I get all the boards in one pass, plus a cut on the stringers deep enough to straighten the sozal to finish.

About 20 years ago I put one of these saw blades in a 10 inch portable table saw and got great results. I've been using them ever since. I rarely need an extra depth of cut. These blades last a long time and stay sharp. The smaller diameter blade allows my saw to cut through even wet wood without knotting. I used to like the Makita 8 1/4 saw but eventually I found it outdated and the lousy fence was the final death. Currently using a Dewalt saw with good results (I've tried 10 at Makita, they…

In 27 years and several major construction projects I have only used four of these blades. I never cease to be amazed, not only by the durability of these blades, but also by the durability of my Makita 8 1/4" circular saw. In all cases, these blades performed flawlessly to the point where I had to replace them due to missing teeth (im as opposed to dullness). In my case, the tooth loss is probably related to cutting thick, kiln-dried hardwoods and not the quality of the blade. After all, it's…

Some 8 1/4" circular saw blades are actually only 8" in diameter (if the blade says 8-81/4" be careful), which reduces the depth of cut by 1/8". " decreased . It's a minor reduction, but if you cut print finished 6x6s (that are about 5 5/8" wet) by making a matching cut on opposite sides, both cuts will be reduced by 1/8" resulting in a 1 ./4 inch, sometimes leaving about 1/8 inch uncut down the middle. I had a Freudian on a saw and its smooth, even cut was very good, but I finally got tired of