Description of Neiko 02847A Unibody Checkered ๐ฏ Resistant: Sleek, Durable, and Reliable Performance
[DEADBLOW] Steel shot filled head adds extra force to hammer blows and eliminates rebound & spark, ideal for auto body work. [QUALITY] Unicast poly molded body prevents hammer from wearing away between the head and handle. Material prevents sparks upon impact. [VERSATILE] Bright color makes it easy to locate and differentiate between other hammers in your tool kit. Use for automotive work, woodworking, sheet metal forming and other work. [COMFORT] Diamond textured non-slip handle grip comfortably keeps hammer in your hands after impact. [SPECS] Hammer dimensions: 2-1/8" x 3-7/8" Head, overall Length: 13-3/8"; 2-Pound Head.
After a tragic boat accident in which my old hammer was lost, it, along with my belt, iron gauntlets, and staff enabled me to crush mountains and crush my enemies again. These days I can only cite time in Thordney for this effort. And this hammer is always ready, willing and able to help me!
Can be good for very light work but I tried to use it to hammer out a large flat piece of brass that I didn't want to damage and the end of the hammer immediately started breaking into pieces. After 10 hits, the metal cap flew off one end and the shot scattered around the room. Very cheap version. Save your money by spending a little more for a quality product.
It's really good although it's injection molded, the feel of the weight gives it a higher quality. I use it a lot on beach tents to nail the tent to the ground, works great mainly because it's a plastic that lasts even when salt and water get on it. The color is also excellent compared to metal, it is easy to find even in the dark.
Bought to install laminate floors. Did the job well. In combination with the tamping block we didn't have a single damaged board and everything went smoothly and easily. I think it was definitely worth landing the killing blow instead of just using a regular hammer. The tapping block arrived in decent shape, although I suspect a standard hammer would have crippled it by the time we were done. Also, I now have a new tool for future projects.
This is a good no-blow hammer for driving material into a router vise. In case you don't know, it should counteract jaw lift or parallelize the piece (or both). This hammer is NOT designed to drive pins or nails into anything. With proper use, this hammer will last you for a while. If it lasts a few years with this usage, which I expect, then it's a pretty good deal.
Bought on recommendation from friends, these hammerless hammers are pretty nifty once you know how to use them. Anyone who swims on a piece of steel or stone quickly ruins a good instrument. But if you need to get over heavy furniture, a heavy small landscaped fountain, or unruly floorstanding appliances, for example, this is just the right style and size. For the uninitiated, a "dead blow" means you can hit a nice flat spot (or create one with a piece of wood) and there's virtually no tediousโฆ
I'm currently in CNC school and we use snap-on rubber mallets there every day to put metal in a vise over parallels and hit them. Pull out the screw at the top of the head when changing bits on hand mills. I got a job at a CNC shop nearby and needed my own tools. I have Neiko impact socket sets and a torque wrench that have served me well, so I decided to try another product from them rather than going with the expensive brand I'm used to. I've used this hammer almost every day and it's beenโฆ