🔥 Improved Performance Ignition Coil by Original Engine Management 50015 Review

REPLACING OEM FOR F150 2002, TRIED EVERYTHING ELSE FIRST, PLUG, CABLE, SCRAP HEAD. I realized it must be my problem. REPLACED ONE MONTH AGO AND FOR TODAY NO HESITATION NO MORE BIG FIGHTS TO CLIMB THE HILL WITH FLUTTER AND WICKER. I'M HAPPY!

This is an exact match of a genuine Ford part and at half the price. Installed 6 weeks ago and the old Freestar runs like a champ. No more hesitation or splashing and increased fuel consumption. Why Ford chose to put it where they did is beyond me - I would give Ford negative 5 stars for that, but I digress. I highly recommend this part!

autozone wants 88$ for this part for my ford tatrus 2001 ses youtube shows you how to do it it only cost me 30 you save 58 parts plus labor what whatever you do save a few hundred, i'm happy. Also, I've had this part in my car for 5 months and it's still working fine because I say that because people think this part is only good for a few months, not in my case. I find this detail useful.

My engine shook a lot when I started it and eventually my #3 cylinder failed on my Ranger/Mazda 3.0. My friend recommended I try replacing this first. Autozone and Orailys wanted $90-100 for the same thing! Got this from Amazon Prime for $35 with 1 day shipping! This part is easy to replace with 3 screws and a lightweight connector. Worked like clockwork, my little 3.0 works great again

It's okay, but not an "Original Equipment Manufacture" part, it's an "Original Engine Management" part, but works great and was half the price a local parts store. It was for a 2002 Ford Taurus when I changed the spark plugs and wires but it still didn't work. The car has not been driven like this in years! new plugs and cables are also commendable. :-)

This helped me and saved me a significant amount of money. A 2004 Taurus with about 91,000 miles on it. Within a few days it began to oscillate and occasionally stall under acceleration, which only got worse. Finally the check engine light came on. The trouble code was P0353, which translates as "ignition coil #1" in the Chilton manual. 3 Primary circuit failure". The original coil showed no cracks or other damage. Tests for primary and secondary resistance were inconclusive. But based on the…

I bought a 2001 F150 4.2L V6 with long side deck (latched top) from a friend who had a lot of DTCs. After bolting on the intake isolator (Dorman brand) and replacing the TPS (OEM Motorcraft) I was able to wet this suction cup (don't try to clean the code and wet it as it won't go through). The thing is that the car jerked (it felt like it was oscillating with small jumps when I pressed the gas pedal) when NO CEL was on. I read on the F150 forums that it could be the ignition coil or a cracked…