🔌 Enhanced Ignition Switch, Standard Motor Products US74 Review

Replaced the original ignition switch. The installation of the ignition switch frame is a bit tricky, you need a special tool to install it. I did one, after that it was easier to put the ignition. bezel. works perfectly.

Doesn't the bezel fit without the cut around the derailleur and the metric cut has no nut? I had to find the right metric. But is everything ok now? For half a day I tried to turn the switch under the dash 😎 Lesson Learned checked everything before I climbed under the dash.

The switch was an exact replacement for the original switch. After receiving it I also decided to replace the ignition cylinder with a Standard Motor Products US20L. Both dock well, but the installation process is complicated. A YouTube video helped explain how to do it. I also learned that the rubber braid inserted into the back of the original derailleur was faulty. The only place I could find it was in racing at the highest level. This was for a Mustang that used the same derailleur. Not…

I bought this switch along with a recommended key switch ILC151 for my 1965 F100. Switch and lock cylinder do not work together. The outside of the switch looks just right and we spent quite a bit of time fitting the cylinder into the switch. We ended up running the new and old side by side and found that the tongue molded into the switch body wasn't machined properly to allow the end of the key cylinder to pass through and snap into place. The old lock cylinder does not fit the new switch…

The switch seems to work fine but like others said I needed the nut in the kit the more it's different size than the original. I think it's just stupid. I'd pay another dollar or so if the nut was included, no complaints. Save yourself the hassle and just buy some nuts when you place your order, or make sure you have one or two on hand. Size (if they are always the same) metric M5-0.8. I had to run to my local auto zone to get one because of course I had every size on hand other than the one I…

Works great but since you are installing it on an older machine you may need to tweak a few things. Either a holding frame (ACC, ON, START) or a spring or both. After trying to inflate it for 4 hours I just installed it and here are some tips. You should be able to access it from the back and push from the back to compress the spring on the dash, then turn the bezel counter-clockwise to loosen the old one. Accessing my '72 Ford Bronco wasn't easy. But with a shim glove on my hand and a large…

Purchased to replace the ignition switch on a '63 Ranchero. The switch works fine. The OEM connector connects seamlessly to the additional connector on the switch. In later years an extra terminal was used for something, but in '63 it's just an extra tab. Just to give you a good overview, here's how. Early ignition switch Fords have a frame in the dash that holds the shift/lock cylinder against the dash. The bezel (shiny ring labeled ACC/OFF/RUN/START) is rotated about 1/4 turn and removed. Not