Review on 🖨️ Polymaker PC Max G True Printing Filament: Unleashing Print Precision and Strength by Hesham Peltier

Let me first say this thread is AMAZING! I've seen a lot of conflicting reviews on this thread and it seems a lot of the bad reviews are due to a variety of factors. First, you really MUST have a good body. Keeping the temperature around the build plate at a constant level is key to preventing your prints from warping. Second, you need to make sure the thread is DRY. I was hesitant to just take this filament out of the vacuum pack and print right away, but it worked out great! Needless to say, Polymaker does an excellent job of ensuring their product gets to you dry. The last important factor to concern yourself with is calibrating your printer. If you're having trouble with PLA or PETG printing, you need to figure that out before moving on to filaments like PC. I'm printing with a Prusa i3 MK3 which has been heavily modified with a bear frame conversion, Skeletruder (from JLTX on Thingiverse) and a host of other improvements to other printed parts. The temperature I used to print with this filament was 260°C for the nozzle and 80°C for the bed. In addition, Polymaker states that it is mandatory to use a BuildTak printable surface when printing with this filament. I know many other people who have used other skins and their experience with PC-Max was far from ideal. All I can say is that using BuildTak allows this thread to stick very well and it's impossible to detach. I like BuildTak but I don't like it for PLA or PETG. For this I use BuildTak PEI sheets. Polymaker claims you should always use rafts with your prints, but I haven't used it and my prints have turned out fantastic. At first I started using margins to prevent buckling, but in my case it turned out to be unnecessary. I can't recommend this thread enough! If you need to print parts on a PC then I think this is an ABSOLUTE MUST!