Review on 🏎️ MORryde CRE2-35 CRE3000 Suspension System - Efficient Tandem Axle, 35-Inch Wheel Base by Mark Lowery

In short, I bought it. I installed it myself. Survived the experience. I'm glad I did. Want a ridiculous amount of detail? Continue reading. PLEASE NOTE: In the following I am referring to parts that are part of the MORryde bracket kit, NOT only on the CRE3000. Don't think that everything I describe below can only be done with the CRE3000. On the spur of the moment, I decided to upgrade the suspension on my 2006 26 foot RV. Myself. In my entryway. I've never done anything like this, but how difficult can it be? Without telling my wife about my grand plan to turn our driveway into a trailer workshop I ordered a CRE3000 and (since I had to remove the wheels anyway and rusty bolts) I decided to upgrade the struts with a heavy duty MORryde as well Kit operating conditions. I think it's called "wet" because it can be oiled. (MORryde UO12-016 Heavy Duty Shackle Upgrade Kit, CRE3000 / Stock / Equaflex 2.25" cleats - tandem axle for lifting my trailer on the frame). 1" hose and extension tube.) 24" rod breaker (make rusty bolts Fun!) B'laster Can (B'laster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11 oz. Percussion Socket Set for my Air Percussion Gun. Two Tall Racks Jack (tall enough to support the raised frame) A pair of work gloves .Extra Things I've used I already had on hand: Air compressor Air percussion gun (very excited about my second chance to use it in 10 years) Second, a much smaller jack (I wasn't expecting to use this but it came in VERY handy to have it - details below) Creeper/caterpillar borrowed from neighbor Support for freestanding axles A pair of wrenches the right size for my screws Rubber mallet A hammer Punch I was planning on doing the project with my 13-year-old able assistant on a Saturday afternoon. So starting Thursday I started soaking 11 year old nuts and bolts (7 on each side of the trailer) with a B'laster, hoping that after a few days of soaking they would be easier to remove. the roadway, raised it, set up two tall jacks to support the trailer and removed two wheels (on one side), exposing the entire suspension. Then thinking the leaf spring and bolts could take some pressure off, I raised each axle a little and supported them with small jacks. Now it's time to remove those rusty old screws. So the screws are pointing away from me. That is, they were inserted with the head out and the nuts in (under the trailer). No problem. I put a wrench on the back to hold the nut in place and then used my air wrench to turn the head. Or tried. Didn't move an iota. I then hung my 13 year old on the end of the sweater. Then I hung myself from the end of a broken board. Didn't move an iota. Another P'blaster banging the hammer a bit to try and free the frozen bolts. No joy with any of the 7 bolts. I was very frustrated and had to bite my tongue to avoid the language I didn't want my assistant to hear. Until finally a screw gave way a little. At this point, some of you more knowledgeable people already know my mistake. It turns out that the bolts themselves (on my trailer) are not designed to be tightened. Near the head of the bolt is a small section with grooves that locks the bolt in place. The nut must be removed from the fixed screw. At least until the nut is loose enough to drive the bolt through the grooves and then turn as expected. So learn from my mistake - press on nuts not bolts. I wish I had learned this lesson in a simpler way, such as looking at the new replacement bolts, seeing the grooves and understanding their obvious purpose. But that's not my style. It was also a lesson in perseverance for my assistant. If it doesn't work at first, swear, hit the hammer, almost give up, and then you're lucky. In any case, after the disclosure of the design of the shutter, things went much faster. All of the nuts between the airgun and the breaker came off without much difficulty. The creeper and my helper's small size (compared to me) were invaluable when removing nuts from under the trailer. Thank God strong boys and his mother stayed in the house. We then used a punch to loosen the bolts, loosen the leaf springs and remove the triangular center hanger. More use of a punch to knock out worn OEM plastic bushings from all bolt holes. The disassembly is now complete. Assembly was easy for the most part. Insert the bright brass bushings (from the bracket kit) into all the screw holes and tap gently with a rubber mallet. Center the new CRE3000 and drive in the center screw, place the nut on the back but do not tighten yet. Attach the left and right leaf springs to the CRE3000 using the new brackets and screws from the kit. A tip: On the middle screw (where the CRE hangs), the Zerk connector in the head of the new screw faces outward toward you. ALL other bolts have the mirror mounts pointing inward, under the trailer. This should make access and greasing easier once the tires are mounted. In contrast to the original screws, all nuts except the middle screw are now on the outside instead of on the inside. This will come in handy in the future when I forget the lesson learned above. The left and right ends of the leaf springs that attach to the front and rear hangers of the frame can be a bit tricky to align to get the bolts through. The holes are too high, too low, or crooked. Here I used my little jack to lift the end of the spring to raise it or pushed on the spring to lower it. To put pressure on the spring, I placed the jack on the TOP of the spring and pumped it up until the jack's leg touched the top frame. Then, as I continued to pump, the jack pushed the spring down and lined up the holes. It took a bit of fiddling, including with the jack, to get the leaf spring ends back together, but it wasn't very difficult in the end. The final step was to tighten all the nuts and use the new syringe to lubricate the 7 bolts. Then we changed the tires and everything was ready. On the one hand. It took us about 4 1/2 -5 hours and daylight was getting scarce. We finished the job the next day and based on the lessons learned, it only took about 2.5 hours for the second side. A total of about seven hours, including the penalty for stupidity. We did a test drive and I immediately noticed two things. First, the tires/axles didn't fall off right away. It was a relief. My head was full of "what ifs" and "what did I forget?" and "where did that extra bolt come from?" (just kidding). Second, how QUIET the trailer was. I'm used to lots of squeaks and squeaks from speed bumps and low speed maneuvering, but now the trailer runs silently under all circumstances and seems to float behind the truck instead of bouncing. I'm very happy with the end result and glad I decided to do it myself. It was actually a very enjoyable project for my son.