Review on 🖨 Precision-Engineered Printer Filament: Ensuring Dimensional Accuracy on Spools by David Everett

Let me start by saying that going over 285C with a factory Ender 3 V2 glass bead thermistor is a terrible idea as they are after that temperature are not accurate. general. Now for the stuff. Assuming you have a thermistor that is SAFE to reach 300°C you will run into problems if you try to run 100mm with Octoprint. I've tried getting it to extrude consistently at 285, 300 and up to 320C and I couldn't get the same number twice when trying to get the extrusion width. I kept seeing my newly installed EZR Struder as the culprit, switched back to Winsinn with two gears, same problem. Spring loaded, same problem. I checked the terminal and it pushed out the command G1 E100 F3000 which just didn't like that stuff in my setup. I tried tweaking the PID to see if it actually works at 300C, no change. Finally I chose G1 E100 F60 and it worked great. Started printing at 60mm/s and the cube on the left was 20% full in my dank basement. I tried searching online for estimated print speeds and couldn't find any information. They list the best adhesion at 55C with glue on glass. You'll need to use a case for this as this stuff deforms pretty well in my basement. I dry all my nylon in the Rosewill Dehydrator for at least 6 hours before printing. The cube on the left is 100% filled with glue on a glass pad at 80°C, printed at 300°C and 60 mm/s. I will build and test a case for my Ender Extender 400. As soon as Polymaker has PA6-GF I will try it. I currently have this to play with and will soon be buying a Polymide CoPa to compare with. I'm still very early in the testing phase and will update any relevant settings I find. TLDR, there is very little print setting information and I initially had trouble setting the E-steps because telling the printer to extrude 100mm was too fast for this material at 100C.