Updated 18/12... I bought three of these carburetors (12/12, 17/2 and 17/9) and they were all installed on my Craftsman 536.886540 5HP snow thrower but mine initial 5-star opinion has not proven itself. Everyone worked satisfactorily one season but was horrible the next, with hard starts and a constant stopping problem until the car reached high temperatures... which is around 20 minutes of running time and lots of choke adjustments and/or restarts. . None of them were branded 'Tecumseh' so the name is a bit misleading as they were all unmarked. I have no idea why the shelf life is so short and what makes them so different after they can't have more than ten uses in a season. I only use fresh fuel with no ethanol, park the car inside and literally nothing changes except take it out, add new fuel and try again, so the problems are with the carburetor. I also restored the car quite a bit, so everything from the muffler to the air intake filter has been replaced in recent years. Once the car is warmed up well it idles and idles just as well as if a new carburetor was fitted in the warm season, so it's just not a cold weather carburetor, but it does seem to happen when I've done most of the snow have falls. I've replaced the carburetor every year for the last 6 years now with the three above and a few I bought from another site. For those who have complained that this is Chinese junk, I wish you the best of luck in your search for an OEM Tecumseh carburetor and/or a non-China made carburetor. I recently changed the carburetor on my tiller and paid more for a 'genuine' Briggs & Stratton carburetor and although it was in a B&S box the carburetor body was still stamped 'Made in China'. Now I'm back to an OEM style adjustable carburetor and the ability to adjust both idle and high rpm is a definite improvement as it starts and doesn't stall when the auger and/or drive is engaged. If it's +20 outside, snow and/or sun turning it to slush, unable to start the car and let it run for more than a few seconds, the situation worsens until it's warm enough to function properly. I'm assuming Murray knew what they were doing when they designed it with an adjustable carb years ago, so I've done away with the non-adjustable ones that everyone claims are compatible replacement parts and it's time for my review to reflect my past experiences. several years with this product. If the engine tends to stall under load, or doesn't accelerate properly from low rpm to high rpm, this can usually be fixed by adjusting the high speed screw...if it has one. If not, wait for the car to adjust to the carburetor's output, which is the opposite of how the engine should run... let it run for 20 minutes before you can shift into gear and drive. My '99 Expedition was very difficult to start on a cold morning but it always started easily after warming up and I couldn't find the cause with all the simple fixes so I turned to the last resort which was the fuel pump in the tank what was it...it starts easily no matter what the weather and my mileage has increased by 4mpg. Perhaps not the best analogy, but a poorly running engine with no computers and electronics is most likely something between a fuel tank and a combustion chamber. Yes, non-adjustable carbs worked well when first installed and/or in warmer weather, but installing a new one each season for reasons unknown ended up looking silly, time consuming and expensive to me... but your experience may vary. I just installed a new adjustable carburetor in 20 degree weather and can't believe how much more power I have and how smooth it runs at both high and idle. Whatever the problems with that, I hope you don't see it. with my new adjustable...though time will tell. Thus, the problem appears to have been solved simply by being able to control the amount of fuel supplied while running at full speed. Repair or replace. that is the question? I took the least expensive approach and attempted to restore it. but that didn't work so this review applies to both the 632107A carburetor and the 31840 Oregon 49-840 Tecumseh part 31840 carburetor rebuild kit. The kits are great for rebuilding your carburetor. but not in all situations, and when using originals and generics I've never noticed much of a difference! I have a property and all the gas equipment needed to maintain it. Most of my articles are out of date because I think a lot of the newer articles are worse and don't have the performance that you get from some of the older hardware. I have a cultivator, chipper/chaff, several trimmers, a snowblower; Chainsaw; mowers, blowers and possibly some others. All larger items have 5 hp or more. I've rebuilt a few carburetors and while the kits have everything you need I highly recommend you remove the fuel tank and make sure it and the float are fine before purchasing the kit. as most kits do not include these items or the manifold gasket. I bought my kit off eBay to save a few bucks but when I started rebuilding I found that the float pivot was so rusted that it was the problem and needed replacing and there was a tiny one Hole in the bowl near the pan from such or corrosion. I bought a used snow thrower and figured the corrosion was from drying it out in the sun for several years where condensation would collect water inside. In any case, this meant I needed a float, bowl and mounting gasket and when the cost of these added to the cost of a new carburetor they got smaller. I suspect that in the future I will buy a carburetor and skip the rebuild kit and keep the old item for parts. If I had checked first I would not have bought a carburetor rebuild kit as it is no longer needed now unless I buy other parts and rebuild the old carburetor and keep it as a spare. which doesn't make much sense when a whole new carburetor with gasket costs about $24. The kits are only getting 4 stars because I have a feeling if you need to take something off to rebuild them they should include a gasket to reinstall the carburetor so I don't think it's a complete kit. If you still have parts, it's probably because the kit works for other applications that use that part, but not necessarily for you. don't be happier. I also changed the gas line and spark plug. My 5hp Craftsman snow thrower was difficult to start even with the electric motor on and often stalled. I spent hours outdoors doing what should have taken about a quarter of the time. I also frequently had to adjust the needle valve, run it full throttle, and run it at top speed. It just cleared my throttle off half speed ride with about 6 inches of snow and not too wet. It should be noted that new carburetors do not have a needle valve or bowl drain, but I add stabilizer to my gasoline and no longer store units with empty fuel bowls. After installing a new carburettor, it was simply filled and put into operation, so it received 5 stars. At the risk of offending those of you who know what you're doing, not all conversion kits are created equal as not all gas appliances have the same carburetor type. Most trimmers and chainsaws pass gas through a diaphragm and have no bowl or float. Most heavy equipment like cultivators and snow blowers have a bowl and float because they run a more powerful motor and are in a horizontal position so gravity helps move the gas. Of course, depending on what you have will dictate what I recommend you do before you buy any kit. Eventually I've found that my devices fail faster and run more erratically with the current 10% ethanol gas mix. I found a gas station that sells ethanol free gas and now the equipment works better. Ethanol causes plastic and other seals to fail over time. I had to replace all of the fuel lines in the trimmer because the ethanol destroyed the lines. Due to the large number of gas line sizes, it is difficult to find an exact fit. I'm using this review for both the rebuild kit and the carb because I'm too lazy to edit it. I've found that regular kits and carbs work just as well as brand name ones. Although some of them are different, because of the difference in price, make your own decision.
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