Review on 🔒 MAX Silent and Smooth Sliding Hardware by Seth Gomez

Overall I'm very glad I took the risk and bought here instead of Lowe because it looks the same but is 4 times more expensive! I agree with many other reviewers. I have no idea where they got their measurements for cleat placement, but I knew this was happening and also knew from many other projects that I rarely find cleats that are 16 centered throughout in my 65 year old house what things change the door jamb (not professional of course!) It was a good solution for me for an uncomfortable bathroom. It was an addition a few years ago and they kind of squeezed it in. You couldn't have a bedroom door next to it. open at the same time the bathroom door was open but it worked great. I used an old original cheap door with recessed panels which turned out to be a lot of work. You see on the pictures. I filled them with scrap slabs, leveled them and leveled them with a floor leveler. Then used the remnants of the laminate, glued and nailed on top. Then I dismantled the old pallet for sheathing. I sanded it pretty well, light stain and some polyurethane. I used a galvanized pipe for the handle, the only thing I didn't have in the basement. It's easy and I think it looks good. Some tips learned the hard way: - If you're using the same door as before, it's probably too short and narrow because it had to fit the frame. I added 2x4s to the bottom and sides and then covered them. I used the screws that came with the hardware along with the pre-drilled holes in the rail and matched them to the studs wherever I could. I drilled two more holes in the rail and added two extra screws so at least 4 would go into the studs. I used some spacers between the rail and the wall (painted black). My door weighs at least 50 pounds or more, but it holds up great with this setup - measure, measure again, sleep on it, get up and measure again before you cut or drill. If your door is too thick (I had to place the straps under the door panel for the correct distance from the track) this will be an issue. The instructions show you the basics, but they're a bit vague. I found a few online for a different brand but I think they are exactly the same. I photographed them and published them in this review. They came in handy - these little round discs are attached to the top of the door and don't allow the door to be removed from the rails unless rotated. Please note that the hole in them is not in the middle. Screw them in, not too tight, and rotate them so they hang at the top of the door. Place the door over the handrail and flip them back so they are completely over the door. "Doorstops” attach to the handrail and limit how far the door can move left or right. They are also adjustable when the rail is on. You can't put them on the bolt head, though, so you need to have a pretty good idea of where the bounds of your door will be before you attach them, or like me, you need to take the bolt out, slide the stopper, set Then reinstall the lag screw to check the gap between the inside of the door and the door frame. I had to countersink the screws from the straps inward to keep them from hitting the door frame. I know this is a lot of information but I hope it will be helpful. The equipment is good. Wheels roll easily on track etc. Just be prepared to think things through and plan a lot longer than you think if you are a regular homeowner like me!