I received my 3000w inverter and installed it in my caravan. I did not connect the inverter to the existing power grid, but installed new special sockets for this inverter. What I later discovered after the purchase and during the installation process is that reliable and understandable information from the manufacturer is not enough. I found most of my IMPORTANT information from other reviews and videos on the internet, as well as from my own research and observations. I would like to mention that I have some electrical knowledge but am not a licensed electrician so if you have any doubts or questions you should pass all of this information on to a qualified licensed electrician. 1. As many reviewers have pointed out, the manufacturer should have an English-language and language-understandable view of the quality of their "manuals and specifications". Nowhere in the online sales details or their manual is it mentioned that this is a floating earth implementation. 60 volts on the "hot" and 60 volts on the "neutral" legs of the circuit (creating a 120 volt difference between the legs), and there is no 60 volt reference to ground from either leg of the circuit circuit since the earth is floating. . Other inverter manufacturers make a 120 volt hot leg and the neutral and ground are connected (like house wiring).3. External connections for a high load circuit can supply up to 30 amps, so it may be advisable to install a double pole circuit breaker (both poles are monitored as both are now technically hot) with an appropriately sized circuit breaker installed on the circuit wiring. (i.e. a 15A bipolar switch for a 14AWG 15A branch circuit). I made sure to use 30A 10AWG wire from the inverter's external terminals to the 30A dual socket electrical box. I also installed GFCI in the first outlet. While the GFCI doesn't detect a ground fault (because it's floating), it does detect the current difference between the two legs of the circuit to provide better protection than nothing. You will see this "refresh" method used in older residential two-wire (no ground wires) branch circuits. 4. The manual states that the red external connector is "hot" and the black is "neutral". Compared to two internal sockets, the manufacturer has swapped the wiring of the sockets. You can't fix this unless you want to solder the inverter's internal wiring (warranty void). Since it's a floating mass with both feet hot at 60 volts, it's probably off, but they have to meet electrical codes for hot and neutral connections on outlets to match external connections. IEC requirements and quality control are absent here.5. Considering the price of this unit, since I also received a remote control, you would think that the manufacturer would (a) supply a custom type of household battery and (b) tell you what type of battery it is in the manual ( A23 ).6. When you turn the unit on, it doesn't reach 120 volts immediately, but takes about 5 seconds (assuming the internal capacitors are charging). So I would make sure you don't power the external circuit (at the switch I mentioned earlier) or anything connected to the sensitive electronics inverter jacks until it reaches 120 volts. I also had to replace the four included battery connector wires (two AWG #5 wires for each polarity) which were too short for my setup. I purchased #2 AWG weld wire and battery wires for single wire connections to replace two #5 AWG wires on each battery supply.
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