Seems like every connector or transmission pan rubber gasket I've replaced or paid for replacement was still leaking. It's not like this. It's easy to install and no RTV sealant is required, eliminating the mess. For a good seal, you need CLEAN, FLAT sump and gear surfaces. A bent or warped pan will leak no matter what gasket you use. This seal was used on the TH400 in 87 Chevy V30/K30. I reused the factory screws. The pad is not so thick that it cannot be reused. Cork and rubber gaskets suck, and if you have to do it all over again, spend $35 on extra transmission fluid. And this pad is reusable, so it's worth the money. DO NOT over tighten the bolts, from what I've read they should be around 12 lbs or 144 in/lbs using a small torque wrench. I haven't used a torque wrench like I have in years, but to describe it by touch would be "a little more than neat". It is recommended to gradually tighten the screws in a criss-cross pattern. I have a habit of over tightening screws so I took extra care of that. Overtightening will compress the gasket and/or deform the cup. Both cause leakage. Be patient when loosening the screws. The gear case is aluminum and you need to make sure you get the bolt out if it's partially stuck. A quick force can break it off. And when you reinstall the screws, screw them in by hand or with a wrench before tightening. If you force them in, they can cross the thread.
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