Review on ⚡️ Waterproof 12V to 24V DC Boost Converter for Golf Cart Club Car LED Strip Light, 10A 240W Voltage Regulator by Robert Sisco

Works as expected. We had a hacker turn on a car's 12 volt headlight by plugging in ONE of the 4 12 volt batteries. That didn't work so well in the long run. You can do this, but it's wrong and it will create problems with uneven charging of the battery pack, and eventually the one battery used will not be fully charged. We also bought 8 watts of new LED lighting (4 watts per side), which is completely sufficient, since the handcart always pulls off the road on wooded paths. So we have plenty of extra 12V power that we can use for other purposes (radio, extra lighting, cell phone charging, etc.) if we want. 120 watts will not power incandescent street lights. For these you need to increase it to at least a few hundred watts. However, for carts traveling on country roads, this is more than sufficient. I installed a 10A resettable thermal overload on the 12V output side and a 3A inline fuse on the 48V input side to protect the wiring and used 14 gauge wire. I also soldered the wires into bare crimp connectors and taped them around. Shrink tubing would be better. Should last forever. UPDATE; The idle current on these things is about 32 watts with the lights off. Even with our 7.2 kW battery, this is enough to fully charge the battery in 5 days at best. They need to be connected to a 48V switch to turn off the regulator as well. Mathematically, that's about 10% of our full bank charge per day, but considering the various synergies of working with these lead-acid batteries, it's actually closer to 20% over a 24-hour period than these batteries are actually only capable of 50 % of their total rated capacity. If you charge at the end of each day, it's not a problem. But if you drive a few miles a day and don't charge, it does become a real problem from time to time. I figured the no-load current would be 1-2 watts, not 32. So the solution is to run a 4-wire cable with the switch on the dash and the regulator under the battery seat, and pass 48V through the switch and back to the regulator and 12v wire from regulator to headlights and so on. I used a 4 wire cable because I later wanted to install a battery indicator. So I don't really care. I will only activate the mods when I mount the load counter.