Most dealers sell this part with the controller/cables. If they aren't broken, it's much easier to just swap out the motor. I suggest using a 12V tester (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-6V-12V-Electrical-Circuit-Equipment/dp/B00HZY2TR6) before purchasing to make sure that the motor is getting power, as it may be a bad switch. If you want a simpler but less reliable approach, use the switch and listen carefully. If you hear a click (but no engine noise) that means the relay and switch are working so your engine is most likely dead and this is very common as an internet search will tell you. There's even a website where a guy will show you how to put new brushes in a motor and make it like new for $7 if you have soldering skills. I decided to be lazy and spend another $35 to get this motor and be done with it. See the instructional video mentioned by others in the reviews here: The hardest part of this job is removing the door panel and removing the black waterproof plastic shell underneath that covers the door. Aside from ripping mine, which you probably will, it won't lag behind, but Gorilla's duct tape took care of both problems. And you'll definitely break some of the door panel mounts, so if you want perfection, order them with the engine. My van is pretty old so I decided to live with a few missing. My advice is to be careful when removing the cable drum from the motor so it doesn't fall apart. After taking it off, I secured it with a zip tie to make sure it didn't fall out of the case, but I don't know if that's necessary. There are other videos (try A One Auto) that show how to use two screwdrivers to loosen the plastic pins holding the motor to the door and suggest replacing them with screws. I followed the instructions in the video listed above and just broke them up with a hammer and chisel. As the guy says in the video, be careful and wear safety goggles! I reinstalled the new motor using the new pins that came with the kit rather than the screws as I hope the new motor will outlive the van. NOTE: Before installing the engine, I connected the wiring harness and verified its functionality. The second worst part of this job is putting the cable reel back on the motor. The gear wheel in the cable drum is made of plastic, so do not use force! When the two pieces are properly aligned they slide very easily, but in my case it was very frustrating to get the pieces to line up properly. It took about twenty minutes of tiny hints back and forth, and suddenly he was slipping right off. I hope it slips on the first try to position it. Then be careful when screwing in the self-tapping screws that hold the housing to the motor because you are cutting new threads into the plastic holes in the motor. I moved slowly, making sure they went right in and not over tightening. Then before I glued the waterproof barrier I made sure the window was working now. I will update this review when the engine fails. or I'm thinking of something I've missed. It's not a pleasant job, but actually not bad for the typical handyman or weekend mechanic. Much luck!
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