I use it to heat PV water. It turns out that the maximum supply voltage (Vmp) of the modules is fairly constant, independent of the sun's irradiance and the angle of the sun, so a low input voltage protection can be used to keep the modules at Vmp. In my case it's about 28V. I set the output voltage to 100V so the boost converter tries to sink as much current as possible into the resistance of the hot water tank. I have a 12.6 ohm resistor (including wiring resistance) at 4kW. The CC potentiometer can then be increased to the maximum as the output current cannot exceed 8A at 100V by Ohm's law. At this current, the output power is (100V)^2/12.6 ohms = 794W, well below the value of the resistor. At 794W, the input current is at least 28A at 28V, which is still within specifications. In real life, my solar panels produce a maximum of 220W each, and I have 4 of them connected in parallel, so a maximum of 880W (excluding amplification and wiring). Losses). Consequently, the panels rarely produce more electricity than the board can supply to the hot water tank. The beauty of this setup is that the board tries to maximize the output voltage while keeping the panels at their Vmp, effectively turning them into an MPPT. This is better than connecting 4 panels in series and then connecting directly to a resistor as the panels drop far from their Vmp on cloudy days or in the mornings and afternoons.
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