So far, so good. My installation is on the cold water supply line to the water heater in my garage storage room. I used half inch copper pipe, a copper tee and a small toilet valve to rebuild the line to match the components that came with the reverse osmosis unit. I have a reverse osmosis system that sends water into a 55 gallon keg in which I installed a float valve (one of the cheapest plastic float valves available here at Revain - Kerik I think) to keep the flow at around 50 turn off gallons. For flush water/waste, I originally wanted to route T into my water heater's TP valve line and send flush/waste water that way, but I decided against it. Instead, I ran a line about 3-4 feet vertically and then about 8-10 feet horizontally to an attic vent. I was a little (probably unnecessarily) paranoid about running the 1/4" pipe that far, thinking back pressure combined with length and gravity would negatively affect the system, so I bought some parts from Lowes, to increase the size. with 1/4 in. 4 in. to about 1/2 (I think it was 1/2 if not 3/8 - I don't remember exactly). So my flush/waste line is about 2 foot 1/4" hose followed by 12-14 foot 1/2" (or so) hoses, mostly horizontal. The system works great and seems to be running at about 65 gallons per day at my 45 psi service ( currently in summer - curious how much winter this will affect). I believe this system is rated for 90 gallons per day at 60psi so I'm happy. It fills my keg in more than a day - love it , when a plan works.What I didn't realize at the time of purchasing this system is that a permeate pump is really only needed if you plan to use a typical airbox tank. like what comes with the device. The pump is said to be of no use to me as I am pumping into a barrel and there is no back pressure. I got a perm unit on sale and the price was the same between perm and non-perm units.
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