Review on 🔧 Adjustable High Speed TiN Coated Drill Doctor by Mark Estrada

Update:1. I've had a 750X for a few years. My first impressions of the car have largely stayed the same, with one exception. The diamond disc is quite rough when new. This is the main reason why the drill grinds so roughly. Over time, the sharp corners of man-made diamonds will be erased, and then you'll get decently sharpened drill bits.2. Accuracy varies: after 2 years you'd think I'd never sharpen a drill wrong, but it still happens, and it's not because I screwed up. Sometimes the results don't match and I have to resharpen the drill to get a good edge.3. The setting of the drilling angle is constantly changing. I set it at 118 degrees and over time it will gradually go up to 135 degrees. The locking screw is quite tight and is tightened with pliers. GRRR!4. Never use a split point. It's just rubbish! I got my 750X today so I'm writing this review after watching a few instructional videos and then taking some really ruined parts and sharpening them. This is obviously a noob impression but then again I'm new to this machine but not to precision machining. I started with a bat that had a broken cutter. There were no cut surfaces. I thought I couldn't make it worse. And I didn't. I followed the video and sharpened the club in less than 3 minutes on my first try. The first time in the grinding step I still had a lot of flutes ruined so I started the cutting process again and then twice more to finally get good metal again. The bit is now much shorter due to the broken tip and the 4-fold cut, but cuts hard steel again. I also shared the point. I then looked at the ground surfaces under a 30x magnifying glass. UGG! There is nothing better than mass production. I've tried very light taps on the grinding wheel and it hasn't made the sanded surfaces cleaner either. The clamping mechanism is adequate but when you insert it into the cutting hole there is nothing holding the bit on the diamond blade. You hold onto it here. I want the stand to rest against it and the chuck to snap into place so the print and cut position is held by the machine and not my hand. I was not impressed with how easily I could screw up the sharpening process by using too much force or by rocking the chuck back and forth. The split point is small. I have bits down to 1/8" with nice narrow split points. Maybe I set it wrong. I don't know yet, but the 1/8" bit has no split point at all. What happened was that the edges of the flutes wore out. The larger bits have some sort of separate points but are not as precise as the rest of the bits in the drill set. I wasn't expecting a zero split point like the rest of my bits, but something close would still be acceptable. Less than 1/16 inch above the tip would be acceptable. See attached pictures to see what I mean. around the split point below par. This drill was boring but the cleavage point was still intact. I intentionally sharpened it below the factory split point to show that this machine can't handle the split. She didn't even sand both sides evenly. on this bit is 3/16 inch. The accuracy of this machine is not very good. As I said in my title, better than a boring beat. I think you really do get what you pay for. I'll keep playing around with it. I've already bought a 220 grit wheel, maybe that will make a better end product. I have a lot of dumb bits and a 220 grit circle should help too. I'm not impressed yet, but it's definitely better than boring or ruined beats. For those who work in your home garage or just want bits to cut and are NOT looking for precision ground bits, the $140 is a good investment. Anyone looking for a precision bit sharpener should spend more money and buy something better.