Edited: It was undoubtedly easy to print BUT the prints had incredibly poor interlayer adhesion. I was printing a large structural part with a layer thickness of 0.6mm and a layer height of 0.3mm at 270ยฐC in a heated enclosure and when I removed the print the parts broke in my hands. This filament was dried and printed from a dry box so I have no idea why it is so weak. The only thing that would be better would be if they made CoPA out of carbon fiber. I was concerned about warping because I've heard all the horror stories about nylon and currently don't have a case for most of my printers. Most of my printers are large format (like the CR10S Pro) and difficult to seal properly (the CR10S Pro has the electronics in the base; you can't just toss it in the box as the electronics will overheat too). Filament - it came in a very thick box with some good instructions and very well sealed packaging. Definitely better quality than a lot of the other expensive, high-end filaments I've bought (cough, MatterHackers). I also have a PolyBox, but I plan on making my own filament box one day. I changed some settings from a PETG profile I had: print at 255ยฐC (which CNC Kitchen recommends), PEI 65ยฐC layer + glue stick, 40mm/s. I printed a 20mm cube and he came out almost perfect. The print was about 0.2mm smaller than it should have been, but that can easily be corrected in the slicer. Otherwise, the surface quality and print adhesion were perfect (surprising as nylon doesn't usually adhere well to PEI, but even Polymaker suggests using it [or a glass surface]). I've heard people say it looks like a Taulman 910, but haven't tried it yet. It's a bit pricey for what it is, but if you absolutely need the strength of nylon, this is definitely for you. I have several semi-flexible materials that PETG isn't suitable for and this material is just perfect for them.
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