Review on 📐 Highly Accurate Transparent Polycarbonate Filament: Ensuring Consistent Dimensions by Nathaniel Collins

I bought it back when the description didn't mention it was polycarbonate alloy (so -1 star) but that's fine. This means most people can print on it and enjoy the benefits of PC, namely its durability and heat resistance. Ideal for 3D printer parts and anything that requires good durability. I had to fiddle around with my settings a lot to get this to print well. Any polycarbonate (or "exotic" plastic) needs a bit of fine tuning to work properly as it has different properties than the PLA we all commonly use. So a few notes! He is strong. Like, really strong. It's very hard to break these imprints if you have the right fill and temperature. You can't cold type it; If you do that you will get poor adhesion of the layers and whatever you have done will break the lines of the layers. I print about 255 and it works very well. Don't use Z-Hop. This stuff LOVES to ooze out of the nozzle. Give it a good slow retraction speed, around 10-15mm/s. In terms of length, I have a direct drive extruder, so I set it to 2mm. Also use sloth; I have a 0.4mm nozzle and I have set the amount to 0.07mm3. In general, I would choose a medium to slow typing speed. For example 30-45mm/s for most settings. The fans either turn off completely or run at a minimum. I use about 10-20% speed throughout the print. The first layer is crucial, as with any print, but especially so with this yarn. Print nice and slow, around 15mm/s. Use a brim to avoid warping. Keep the flow about 7-8% lower than PLA. Make the first layer about 4% higher. (So if you're using 100% for PLA, set the flow to around 92% for all but the first layer, which should be around 96%). You can also try increasing the temperature a bit for the first layer as this may help it stick. Bed temp, mine is set at 93. You don't want to change the bed temperature too much compared to the pressure as it can warp or break. Also, make sure the nozzle is damn close to the bed; You want the PC to push against the glass a little bit to improve adhesion. For the material of the bed, I just use regular tempered glass. BUT. You must delete the SNOT from it. No fingerprints, no grease, no stains, nothing. I've used a standard all purpose cleaner and it seems to be working fine. Now say it after me. Clean after each print. stay in bed Don't be in the same room as the printer when it is running. It's not harmful, shall we say, but it definitely makes things stand out and irritates my eyes and lungs a bit if I'm at the printer for too long. just be careful Also remember that these settings worked for me with my printer; Your printer will almost certainly be different, and you may need to change some of my suggestions. Hopefully they at least give you a decent starting point and make it a little easier to use. Oh, and one last thing, this thing LOVES WATER. Keep it dry, you can't leave it if you don't print anything. Better yet, build a filament dry box so the spool isn't visible even when you're printing. Too much water in your filament creates nice crackling noises and reduces both print quality and layer adhesion. Hope that helps.