The picture shows what I used for the crossed out part number for the tailgate latch actuators on my 97 f350 double cab. There is a picture of the Ford rear driver door actuator part number. Ford parts cost over $300 if you could find them and I didn't want to waste my time or money looking for your parts. A Few Tips and Tricks Don't drill the rivet that holds the drive tray in place! unless you have a bunch of gear laying around and can't get it to work, or you don't have a rivet that matches the factory. If you lubricate the sides of the drive and gently push the drive down (your hand should go in the door, my arms being longer and thicker than they should have had a hard time getting into the room but I was able to push it out of bracket, reverse steps to install new assembly) Luckily I found a decent review from a guy who said they work great in crew cab doors and that they work as long as you use the original drive shaft. The only part I haven't read or seen is that you have to cut the original shaft off the original drive. I don't really care, I've been a mechanic on everything from motorcycles to heavy construction equipment for 20 years, I cut right where the curves start. I took a new actuator, put the original rod that was cut in, used the holes as a guide to drill the original rod which should be secured with a pin (comes with a new actuator). After connecting the wiring I inserted the rubber mounts into the original plastic bracket (still riveted to the door from the factory), then it was functionally tested (all switches must be connected to function) before the door panel was fully fitted. Started to finish a little over an hour to do both doors. The first door was made by removing a factory rivet. Replacing the rivet was difficult (there was none that matched the factory rivet). I had to dig through all the loose parts to find a round head, 6mm x 1.00 threaded torx and low profile nylock nut. I will order a rivet for the first door where I broke the plastic bracket. I forgot to take a picture of everything assembled, but overall a halfway decent mechanic shouldn't be difficult. Even if it isn't. the last over a year or two both cost $80 compared to Ford's $800, I still use them!
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