Review on Z Threaded Insert Internal Threads by Will Carey

The main result was that I was able to drive 28 EZ-LOC brass inserts into 3/4 inch red oak garden bench planks. Doing this the first time was VERY difficult to find a method that a) inserts inserts straight b) does not lift the wood around the insert and c) allows the insert to stay in the board when the setting tool is removed Dozens of uses before I felt confident enough to move onto real boards The tools I used were: a) hand drill (if you have a drill press for your board size and can use that's a big plus) b ) DEWALT DW1720 Drill Bit Set, Brad Point (works only with hardwood ) c) WL Fuller 3/8" drill stop (not required for power drill) e) Dowl-it 1000 self-centering jig (or other jig to hold bit in position 90 degrees) f) DCT-T wrench for 1/4"-20 sockets (or some other way of hammering into the socket) The technique I'll explain later applies to hardwood - in my case red oak. I haven't tested it with softwood (pine) but I'm pretty sure it needs to be modified for softwood (z already have it, for example you can replace the Dowl-it 1000 Self-Centering Jig with something else as I Haven't used them for dowels or for finding centers of anything Oak board but it worked fantastic for that, if you have a drill press you can put a 1/4" screw in the chuck and turn the chuck by hand to turn insert the insert: I saw someone do it on YouTube, but I don't have a drill and couldn't do it. Whatever you do, you need something to keep the 90 degree angle. That's my technique : You don't need a drill stop for this, as you can see, this is a magic step to prevent the tree from lifting off later when the bit is screwed into the tree, with the drill stop attached and drill the rest of the holes c) Prepare a 90 degree insert driver. For me, this was achieved by attaching my Dowel-it jig to a piece of wood by inserting the T-wrench's shank through a 5/16" hole in the jig (I had to sand the shank a bit, in order to do this) . rotate freely) and attach the 1/4" socket to the end of the T-wrench. d) Insert the socket into the wood 1/2 turn to set the exact position of the jig. e) Clamp the jig onto the board. f ) Using a T-wrench (may require pliers) turn until the bit goes in. g) Unscrew the T-wrench, remove the jig, check that the bit is fully seated, make an additional turn if necessary I know it's difficult, but this technique has given me reproducible results.Also note that the drill diameter I used was 3/8" instead of the 25/64" recommended in the instructions.This made for a good Thread appearance and I had no problem with the wood insert coming out when the T-wrench was reversed/pulled out.