Review on Enhance Engine Performance with ACDelco Professional 9748GG Spark Plug Wire Set by Alex Barnes

I bought these spark plug wires for my 2001 Silverado which I first replaced the spark plugs and wires after 230,000 miles have replaced. I also bought new platinum dual tip spark plugs from Revain. With new spark plugs and new cables, my truck runs like new. Before the replacement I had a jerky idle on a cold start. In my case, this change solved the problem 100%. The old spark plugs are worn out. As a lifelong auto mechanic, I appreciate the high quality of these ACDelco spark plug wires. They are very complex compared to old school spark plugs and spark plug wires. All current cars have high energy ignition systems and the spark plugs and cables are much better than the older versions. The connections to the coil and the plug are very complex and good. It should be noted that two kits are offered with different part numbers. This ACDelco 9748GG kit is made for my truck's specific ignition coils. The other set you will see is an ACDelco set with a part number ending in HH. The Revain descriptions for these two options are clear in the part descriptions. The advertisement indicates for which reel design the cables are suitable. The ad invites you to test the coils on your vehicle. The two types of spools are identified by different numbers printed on the side of the spool. The number on the side of my coils was ACDelco 9748GG. When I received them I installed all 8 in less than half an hour. Now if you've read forums or YouTube videos on how to replace plugs and cables, that sounds like hard work. Until you understand what I'm trying to say. Candles are usually installed. The GM Technical Service Bulletin currently recommends applying a small amount of anti-seize paste to the front threads near but NOT on the tip of the spark plug electrode. To install the spark plug wires, insert the boot into the cylindrical heat shield and apply tear sized dielectric grease to the hole in the boot. Using a small screwdriver or cotton swab with some cotton clipped off, rub the dielectric grease around the inside of the boot's rubber hole, from the tip to the metal that connects to the spark plug. This will help prevent the boot from sticking to the spark plug and will help prevent high energy arcing outside of the spark plug from the tip to the base of the thread rather than through the spark plug as it should. You must use dielectric grease as directed. So the boot goes into the heat shield and the lubricated boot goes over the spark plug. The housing has a metal plug that attaches to the tip of the spark plug. It's a very soft and quiet click. You won't believe you're wearing them because the boot still wobbles, but I guarantee when you hear or feel a click they're securely connected. The end of the cable that connects to the drum is not lubricated. It pushes against the hole at the bottom of the spool and you hear and feel a distinct double click. First I snap the ends of the coil on because they're a bit harder to slide, then I twist the wire/coil connector so the wire is pointing straight down, and then the heat shield/spark plug well over the spark plug, wiggling and sliding until I hear it click really thin. That's all the information about the new installation. The initial uninstall can be a nightmare, but I figured out the problem. The spark plug rubber boot is stuck in the spark plug body and the metal plug of the spark plug tip may be old, corroded and stuck. After days of squirming and tugging, as the forums and YouTube videos show, mine finally came loose. But now that I understand the problem, there is a better way. I have a bunch of auto picks. One of them has a 90 degree bend at the end. It slides between the heat shield and the rubber sleeve. Then you come to the end of the rubber boot, you can rotate the end of the pickaxe to grab the end of the rubber boot. By passing this pick around the end of the rubber boot and breaking the pinched boot by wiggling and pulling, the spark plug tip connection can be loosened with little effort. With this pick-up method, if you take the end of the boot and pull on it, you essentially push the boot in the right direction and it breaks out. Pulling on the wires will damage them, so this sliding method is the right choice. I haven't found anything else that would fit in there to free that stuck boot from the spark plug without wiggling or pulling or pulling or fraying the wires for a few days at a time. Still, installing new spark plug wires is a good choice, saving you the time and hassle of just ripping off the only wires but saving the heat shields for reuse. Enough on this subject. These new spark plug leads are amazing and work great, just as good or better than the ones I had on my car which lasted 230,000 miles!