🚗 Enhance your Ford F-Series Clutch Performance with Orion Motor Tech Clutch Pedal Fix for 1987-1998 Models Review

My clutch had a lot of play before it was installed. It will touch the ground about an inch and most of my gears will grind a little. Now it snaps at the top where it should. I didn't remove the clutch master so it wasn't very convenient to do all the work between the seat, steering wheel and dash. The hardest part was removing the clutch lever from the shaft because of the corner. After grinding and knocking out the bolt, I used a dremel to cut off the nose on the clutch master. And everything

PLASTIC CLIPS WILL NO MORE BREAK, SO THEY STAY IN ORDER! Only thing, it would be better if they packaged this with lever drilled and ready to use. You will need a new one of these levers (if you do it right) and you will need to drill out the existing pin and put a screw in its place. (Trying to use an old lever is problematic because the first time you tighten the lever on the pedal assembly, grooves are cut into the metal and there is no way to ensure a tight fit when trying to reuse it)…

Installed on my 89 f350 with zf5 manual gearbox. General? 5 stars is easy, it took all the dirt and play out of my clutch pedal and some friction too. My pedal is now buttery smooth and easy to press. I installed Luk's new master/slave clutch combination and indeed the factory plastic bushing soon broke. I have a factory Luk clutch so there was no extra pressure from the heavy duty clutch. The plastic was still breaking. I have this home splicer that Orion has been selling for 3-4 weeks now and

The idea of this product is good, but be aware that there are a few things you need to know first.1. Guide #2. If your clutch pushrod has a plastic end installed, the end of it will break off and you'll be stuck. Install it on all metal push rods only. If your cylinder is plastic, you will need to purchase a new all-metal master cylinder. They are hard to find.3. You must make any modifications to the pushrod while leaving it attached to the master cylinder. Unscrew the master cylinder and…

Good. I wanted to make a "how to" video but I've never posted anything like this before, so I'll write a detailed review/guide to help others. This setup is not for the faint of heart. To remove the clutch lever, mine was closer to 18mm and was tight as hell, the lever "pushes in" so it takes a small pry bar, rocking it back and forth to remove it. cylinder rod. I've tried a hacksaw, but the thing is hardened steel. So much so that it's tougher than a hardened steel clutch lever. Mine was about