Fluidmaster B1T12CS CLICK SEAL Toilet Connector: Stainless Steel, 12-Inch Length Review

The plastic fitting is very easy to use: good grip and good sealing. You can install it with bare hands (no tools) with no leaks. This doesn't seem like a huge benefit, but only if you don't use flow filters. The latter will require a rare cleaning from you. It is recommended that you must unplug the connector first. A metal fitting will require you to use tools, but you only need it once. And in any case, you will need tools to disconnect the old connector.

I bought three of these from Revain. None of them clicked, although they seemed to work. Thinking I might have a bad batch or a fake I sent it back and bought another one from Ace Hardware. He didn't click either. Since I replaced the old hoses with the same feature that clicks, I'm confused as to what's going on. I contacted Fluidmaster and they said if it's not leaking then it's fine. I'm not sure if this is correct, but I'll leave it as it is for now.

It wasn't as easy as the description suggests. First, the end of the check valve is a regular compression fitting, nothing special. The other end in the toilet is a snap system but it just didn't click when first attached which bothered me. Disassembled, and the second time there was a distinct click. Update May 2021: Bought again due to another leaking toilet. This time the end of the toilet definitely snapped the first time.

As a settlement specialist, I have seen too many houses flooded because many years ago someone decided to tighten the plastic nut on those that attached to the toilet bowl are connected. This can lead to a stress crack in the nut and eventually a breakdown that will swamp your home. This "click seal" technology is amazing. Tighten by hand until it clicks, done! They guarantee it won't overstretch or leak. Another tip: consider buying water leak detectors and placing them anywhere in your home…

This connection has a "pseudo” O-ring and a feature that does not allow "over-tightening”. Well on January 29th 2020 I had a major premature failure and erupted from the side that connects to the toilet and all over my floor to my laundry room. The leak must have been going on for hours, this amazing event has done a lot of damage to my drywall and cabinets. A design flaw, I temporarily dropped an o-ring in the plug and it sealed and only dripped for a couple of hours. and it was only necessary

Having suffered $20,000 in water damage from overtightening a plumbing fitting, I know the value of these things. I've replaced my old wiring throughout the house with floodproof connectors, but floodproof connectors are not suitable for toilets or washing machines as they trip with normal use. The safe click option is the best alternative. These connectors will not wear out or fail for decades as long as the plastic is not stressed. One click during installation ensures that this does not…

I usually shy away from changing the toilet's filling line from the domestic water connection. But I have to say it was a pretty easy setup and pretty straight forward. Pretty much one side connected to the water inlet valve and tightened with a wrench, and the other side connected to the fill valve on the toilet and screwed in until I heard a click. After that I turned on the water and was happy to see I didn't have any leaks the first time. A week later it was working pretty well and didn't…

I don't know why but at first the hose didn't seal properly. The clicking only came when I felt like I was trying too hard. The toilet worked once and never filled again. I took it off and redid it and it clicked in the right place. I also redid the metal fitting on the other end, which I also thought was too tight. After that it worked as it should. If your old one is leaking, turn off the water in the toilet. When mine first leaked I hand tightened it and it was fine for a couple of weeks but