Enhanced SEO-Optimized SPC Performance 37985 4-Way Ball Joint Separator Review

Works where others don't. Wide enough to fit around the knuckle and long enough to reach both the stud and ball end. Popped out the LCA, torsion arm ball joints to replace the arm.

Quickly attached ball joints to my E36 M3. I had to sharpen the tip a bit to get enough clearance to fit between the bobby pin and the post, but after that it worked great, literally knocking out hours of the time it took me to finish the last set with the cucumber fork and 4 # close . Hammer.

Quality construction, reasonable price, high strength hold down screw and hinge pin that is easy to remove by hand and will not fall apart on its own (pin has a spring loaded locking ball). With 4 position adjustability, this is the most versatile ball joint cage I've seen. The 2017 Tacoma Sport upper ball joints didn't stand a chance!

You really need to know how to use them and if they really do what you need them to. I bought this tool to use on my Porsche 996TT when changing some control arms. Unfortunately, the tool does not work for this application. Although it was money spent on something I didn't use, it ended up in my drawer with other tools I might use one day. Who knows, maybe it just works in this app.

I wish they would specify the type of metal used and the metallurgical process used to produce it, otherwise the claim that it has the highest tensile strength could be true but you don't know why , except through empirical knowledge or your experience with it. This tool is quite noisy compared to my trusty HF separator. If made from high strength alloys and hardened, it may even be the "strongest" ball joint cage. Haven't used it yet but its size, finish and SPC reputation give me confidence…

Probably the most versatile ball joint splitter but I had to modify it to fit the large rear cones on my Mitsubishi Pajero. The split jaw was too narrow to fit the ball joint rubber boot, so I used a grinder to thin and narrow the fork teeth. This allowed the jaws to slide under the rubber boot. The nuts on the cone face inward toward the driveshaft, so there was no way I could hit the cone from that side with a hammer or other leverage. I am attaching photos of the instrument before and after…