Review on ESUN 1.75mm Semi-Transparent Filament Printer: An Advanced Printing Solution by Cesar Danger

My first PETG filament. It was difficult at the beginning, but now I will not return. If you're looking at PETG, you probably know the path to take. Color glossy black in normal use. If you can achieve 100% fan coverage and drop the temperature by about 5C, you can achieve a matte finish. This thread will still stretch like other PETG heads and some say even more, but you'll need to tweak the machine to get the finish you want. PETG shrinks about 0.4%, so you don't have to worry as much about curling. I'm printing on bare glass at 100°C and only had 1 bad grip and that was because my Z offset was set poorly. Durability and repeatability or PLA and temperature resistance ABS without odor. Natural PETG is fairly food safe (be sure to check FDA approval anyway), but the color options may not be down to the dyes used, so don't print pink leak-proof cups for your 4-year-old. Calibration: Get your multiplier and lower its percentage point. I found my multiplier was 1.05 so I lowered it to 1.04. The multipliers seem to be very system dependent and some people drop their PETG multipliers down to 0.8, fear not. However, it should not be higher than 1.10, so check the thread diameter again. Using a small amount of filament will prevent filament from building up on the hot end. Get the Z offset and then increase it a bit. I print about 0.025mm higher than the dead 0. Similar to working with a few low values, this helps prevent stray filaments from building up on your first layer hotend. Anyone coming from ABS will want to push their filament against the build plate, don't give in to that urge. Each squish of the filament just scratches it on your hot end, and you pay for it later. Retraction You want a subtly aggressive retraction profile; On my MakerGear I run 1.2mm at 50mm/s. All long rides will leak out, so watch out for shorter rides. Wipe and Coast are also good settings. Consult your car's forums to see what others are doing there. A z-hop isn't necessary as there should be little to no curl, but a fragile print *may* benefit from a z-hop. Slower. Literally take your speeds that you are comfortable with and cut them in half. PETG works great at slow speeds, the more hot end in the area the better the grip and the stronger this material is. You can use fill patterns that allow your lure to linger in that area longer, such as B. a honeycomb. Avoid squeezing out too much thread. My extrusion width is the same everywhere, infill, top, bottom, whatever. Some people report success with extrusion widths up to 150%, but you're really playing with fire or threads and drops. If you're having trouble leave a comment below and I can try to help, but community advice on your specific machine would be best.