Review on 🚘 Kia Motors OEM Genuine 93410B2010 Fog Light Switch Lever Assy - For 2014-2016 Kia All New Soul, No Auto Light Function, 1-pc by Nguyen Taylor

I have a 2014 Kia Soul+ that I have owned for over a year and a half. One of the best cars I have ever owned and I love driving it. In fact, within a few months he was having a problem, when driving with the headlights on, every now and then when using the turn signals and exiting the turn when the turn signal lever returned to the "off" position, the headlights would turn off! At first I thought I somehow provoked this situation since it happened sporadically and I couldn't repeat it when I tried on purpose. It was slowly getting worse where it often did. On this car the headlight controls are on the same turn signal stalk so I figured it was something mechanical that was physically common to both circuits and not an electronic issue. Searching the web I came across anecdotal comments about this issue, but no one seemed to know what was causing it. Then I found a comment from a mechanic saying he replaced the turn signal switch and the problem seemed to go away. No further action was taken on his comment so I had no way of knowing if it was actually a problem, although it seemed consistent with my observations of the situation with my machine. I removed the steering column cover and exposed the turn signal/headlight switch. I found small holes in the base of the switch where all the moving contact points for the various circuits are. I couldn't remove the switch without removing the steering wheel (which also means the driver's airbag would have to be removed as well), so I used an electronic contact cleaner spray and sprayed it into the various holes on the switch body. The problem with headlights turning off without warning is gone! .For a while he returned with a vengeance. I could no longer rely on the headlights turning on when I turned the knob on the turn signal stalk. Sometimes they worked and sometimes they didn't. I ordered a replacement switch and looked at the replacement procedure. I trained as a mechanic in the 70's and did most of my jobs myself for years, so the process of removing and replacing a switch wasn't intimidating to me, but I can see where it might be for someone else. You need to remove the airbag, then the steering wheel, and then carefully remove a small assembly called the "clock spring" to keep it from unwinding. This will take you to the switch (which is actually toggled when the wiper switch snaps into place on the side of the turn signal switch). At work you need to remove and replace some wire connectors. And one more thing: the nut holding the steering wheel to the column must be replaced with a new one, as it is self-locking and disposable. The nut is not included with the switch, although it is necessary for easier and faster work. I had to order the nut separately after reading the Kia manual. Again this nut must be tightened to specification, this is referred to as torque. This is easy when you understand what you are doing and have the right torque wrench. Why did I take all of this to talk about replacing the turn signal switch? Because if you've ever done mechanical work on your car and you know the basics well (like the need to tighten a nut to a certain degree), don't be intimidated by the removal of the airbag and steering wheel. , then this is a fairly easy and fairly quick repair job. If you're not mechanical by nature and are concerned about your ability to follow what I've already outlined, take it to the store and pay them to do the work. Is it expensive? Yes, and I have no idea how expensive it is, but shops are probably getting around $90 an hour right now, and a good mechanic could easily do it in an hour or less, but who knows. I got the derailleur through Revain and got the job done for about $65, and that's assuming I ordered some extra steering column nuts ($1.66 each) and paid ridiculous shipping cost for the nuts (3 nuts cost much less than the delivery for only 1 piece). . Mother). Replacing the switch seems to have fixed the issue with my headlights as they have never turned off unexpectedly since completing the task. The switch is a genuine Kia part, it comes in a genuine Kia box and the nuts are also sealed in the genuine Kia parts bag. One final note: I disassembled the original switch to see if I could pinpoint the source of the problem. All contact points in the switch were in good condition, no burned spots from an arc or short. All moving parts inside seemed to work as intended (i.e. correctly). The only thing that seemed out of place to me was the amount of what I thought was "dielectric" grease. Dielectric grease must not be conductive. Typically used to seal rubber boots on electrical connectors (on the rubber part of spark plug boots, etc., but not on metal connectors). It can also lubricate moving parts without conducting electricity. So I doubt the large amount of dielectric grease I found in the headlight/turn signal switch contact points. Being non-conductive, it is enough for the circuit to stop conducting that the lubricant moves across the surface of the contact points, which is what happened inside the switch with every movement of the lever. . That would explain why my spraying of contact cleaner on the switch seemed to help at first, but ultimately didn't help because I wasn't getting to the contact points properly and the remaining grease kept causing problems. Is the new switch set up the same way? I don't know. I also don't know how you can lubricate such a switch so that it works reliably 1000 times without problems. I will be watching very closely how the new switch works.