🔑 MGI SpeedWare 12v Universal 4-Position Ignition Key Switch: Acc/Off/IGN/Start Review

Quick and easy unless you're bluffing or your hands are running low then you can't read this to find out why you even need it.

They are very cheap anyway. They all seem to be made the same way for different brands, just renamed each time. I have one in a '67 Datsun Roadster and so far so good.

Replaced a faulty ignition switch on a New Holland skid steer loader. Great price and arrived promptly. Update: Lasted about 10 hours of use, then the plastic detached from the metal case. Garbage.

The price was very good and the switch has all the features I was looking for. Bought for a 1940 Allis Chalmers "C" tractor. I haven't installed it yet so can't comment on how well it works, but it looks pretty solid.

I don't know what I was thinking when I bought a non-grounded ignition switch. But worst of all is the mounting hardware for this thing. Weak and COLD. Personally, I don't even think that thing is secure. Even if you made it. Fastening material is so flimsy that it will probably start to rotate after 3 uses.

Product works well, relatively easy to connect with good instructions however the threaded part is shorter than the factory part. I had to drill through the back to mount it which unfortunately buys new parts and immediately starts modifying something to fit. Too long is no problem, but too short is a big problem. It was installed on a fiberglass boat.

I bought two of these and they fit my 2003 Stingray and are easy to fit. Not a bad choice for the money, but they don't stand up to abuse. The first fell apart within a year. I have asked everyone using the boat to be careful when replacing and make sure the unit is firmly seated on the dashboard. And I will invest in a more durable replacement.

I replaced it with ignition locks in January, the problems started in June with the left and right motor not starting from the upper and lower steering wheel . After diagnosing the problem, it turned out that the plastic housing of the terminal was moving away from the aluminum housing on all four. Bought a fifth one, bent the tabs holding the terminal's black plastic case and glued them into a gorilla. If not, don't buy!

Fits my 1979 Jeep DJ (thought the factory hole was a bit bigger). The wires are firmly connected. I took the cylinder out of the body to add some more lube as the works cylinder seemed too stiff. The keys seem to be underpowered for a car I drive maybe more than once or twice a week so I'll have to cut new keys for it soon. I don't think this is a permanent solution, but it will work for the next few months while I start the project machine.