Review on KREG KMA3200 Shelf Pin Drilling by David Ruwala

Bought for my carpentry shop. Building built-in closets is one of my jobs and most of my work takes place on site. This purchase was a way to simplify the tedious task of drilling pin holes in shelves. Since I recently drilled 405 holes for a bookshelf, I figured a survey would be in order. The bookcase and other designs utilizing this item (KREG KMA3200) were made from birch plywood with a solid wood front frame. Advantages: small and compact. Easy to keep on a working vehicle for immediate use. - I love the built in bit storage and locking pin. I wish there was a place for an Allen key, like in a Eurohinge mount. - Drills a fairly clean hole without much veneer separation. A NOTICE. My old method was to spread everything out, use a small set of nails, and punch a small hole in the plywood to keep the bit from moving. Then use a 1/4" drill bit in reverse to break the plywood veneer without breaking, then drill normally with another 1/4" bit with a locking ring for the actual hole. If I hadn't done that, the plywood would have been severely torn. The veneer is too thin these days. way to great work! - I have been using their pocket screw jigs for years and feel comfortable, the steel inserts will stand the test of time. - This stayed true by using only one guide pin to constantly move the jig up the 7ft high panels of the tall bookshelf. (See also negatives). As a result, my usual 3/4" ledge shelf edge doesn't fit behind the front frame. Once the shelf pin itself is installed, only about a 1/2" maximum is allowed. Also, it's positioned so close to the edge of the plywood that the Fasteners that attach the pad can protrude into the hole.This has happened so I now line up the fasteners so they don't line up with the holes but it's a pain in the AZ.- The bracket has one too very slight misalignment when you turn them over to drill between front and back the part you want is hard to tell with tape measure but I have a very slight wobble on the shelves where the front right side always goes down .Sometimes this can be because the plywood isn't flat, but it's consistent enough in that direction that you want the jig to have a slight offset from side to side Generally I will use it now, it's better than my old method. I need to work on a fix for the backward !" movement. Also, drilling a little slower and being careful to stay perpendicular to the workpiece helps with tear-off problems. - I also have a slight but noticeable misalignment of the holes noticed Jig does a good job