Review on 🔊 Loud and Powerful: Viking Horns V101C-3/4008 Universal Fit Train Air Horn Kit with 1.5 Gallon Tank and 150 PSI Compressor - Up to 149 decibels! by Peter Tennant

Edit 12/30/20. So far several components have failed. The ball check valve that holds the air in the compressor failed causing not only a leak but a horrible whistling noise throughout the leak. The tube and compression fitting leaked and the threads failed. Now the magnet is broken. Not a very good result in just 9 months. Upgraded to 2 stars because none of their brass fittings should be used and it's quite annoying to mistake spares for something so simple. The beep is loud. It sounds great. The main components appear to be of quite high quality. Let's get that out of the way right now. Now. To actually install this you really need to know what you are doing. Since the tank will be powder coated after the fittings are welded on, you must first run a faucet through each fitting. Therefore you need a 1/8 NPT and a 1/4 NPT outlet. If you don't skip a faucet, you risk ruining the threads on all your hose fittings, switches, etc. Of course you have to use thread seal tape as standard for any other use of pneumatic fittings, but this was included in my kit. Second, the mounting hardware they send for the compressor is woefully inadequate. The compressor is the heaviest item in the kit, and they send you tiny screws to mount it. You'll need to upgrade it to at least an M6 bolt (1/4" if you insist on using SAE). Make sure you use blue (medium strength) threadlock on the pipes or they won't rattle during normal Third, the gear sent to protect the tank was SAE grade 5 gear, while the gear sent for everything else was metric grades (ranging from 4.8 to 8.8) in bolt boxes .I have used all stainless steel hardware to avoid future problems. Fourth, the connection advice they give is grossly inadequate and genuinely dangerous. Under no circumstances should you use 14 gauge wire to run the compressor question. 3. September 2015 The compressor draws 30 amps while running, which is a significant load, you should use at least 12 AWG (not the cheap Revain "12 gauge" wire) for the compressor, but e actually it should be 10 gauge if it's not next to the battery. I bought a relay box and connected the horn solenoid and compressor to their own relays and used the switches side by side to turn on the compressor switch and horn switch. You really should hook up a compressor to a relay if you don't like lit switches. Don't cut your factory wiring harness to power it, make a switch and get it right. Fifth, "FREE BURNER KNOB!" It's super cheesy, cheap, and useless unless you really want a surface mount knob to screw into your dash. It's serviceable, but I'd rather it wasn't even shipped because it was thrown straight into the trash. Other than that it wasn't really a problem for me because I knew what to expect and got it. Everything is ready. I used rivet nuts to attach the components to my truck frame, which kept drilling to a minimum.