🔑 Enhanced Motorcraft SW6383 Ignition Switch and Lock Cylinder for Optimal Performance and Security Review

Easy to work with and just what I needed. The delivery took much longer than expected. But there are no complaints about the product. PS installed on a 2003 Ford Excursion with a faulty ignition.

In 2000 Ranger got this new key cylinder. Everything is in place to recode it to your old key. The best video on YouTube for the "How Ro" procedure. I have a step with a captive ball bearing that makes this step easier. Choosing the exact insert was trial and error for me as I can't "read" a key like a locksmith. I'm sure that's the last thing I need.

I am very satisfied with this product. Many years ago the wand broke in my ignition lock cylinder and I replaced it with a cheap non-OEM wand and the doorbell stopped working when the keys were in the open door. Also, the release lever stopped working so I had to press the pin underneath to unlock it. I just received and installed this and it works great. I wish I had that first. My car is a 2003 2.3L Ranger with a transponder. The pins in your old lock cylinder should have numbers so you can…

Hello everyone. Decided to write about this as I had a problem that I saw here earlier. First I took it to a locksmith and paid $25 to have it tied to my key. I didn't do this part. This worked for my 2003 Ford F150 XL 4.2. Removing the old one is easy, since you take a small pick or screwdriver and, after turning on the ignition, insert the pin, which is located at the bottom of the column under the ignition. The only issue I had as you can see from the two photos was that the locking pin was…

Bad reviews come from people who don't know what they are doing, it worked great on my 2000 Ford Excursion! If you don't want to pay to reprogram your car with a new key and want to have two different keys for different doors, this is what you need. You have to be mechanical to use it, it's not easy. I almost sent it back and gave up, but I found a video showing how easy it is to put that little bearing and spring in place (no). In the beginning it was a little different. Mine had a different…

Original Motorcraft switches. But *in my setup* on a 1995 F-150 there is no longer an "Accessories" entry. I only have Off/Start/Run. At least my spinning broken old bezel is gone. It was fairly easy to code the plates for my existing keys. Instructions are good, all necessary parts are included. The only real knock is the awkward keyhole. Looks like a duckbill compared to the sleek, angular OEM look. Or Dorman for $12. EDIT 7/30/19: My brother said to turn the key harder and further…

If you've owned a vehicle for a long time it's a good idea to have someone else drive it so they can tell you if there might be any problems you're becoming accustomed to have, and did not even notice. I didn't realize it, but one day I finally decided to find out why I sometimes had trouble starting my truck. I was afraid that one day I would put the key in and not be able to start. Miraculously, after comparing it to one of the spares, I found that the key was quite worn out. I jumped on the…

I bought an "unbranded" switch at a local auto parts store for about half the price that fit and worked but I couldn't replace it the balls (to keep my original key) from the OEM switch. The plugs fit into the key slots, but the internal design was wrong and prevented the key change switch from working. I was able to replace my old key with this Motorcraft spare (made in Mexico, not the USA). Replacing the key is fairly easy if you take the old plugs out of the cup, they are numbered (from 1 to