🔪 High-Performance Freud 10" x 40T Blade for Precision Crosscuts & Rips on Various Wood Surfaces (P410) Review

This is a decent blade for the price. It was used out of the box in the Birdseye Maple project with a 3hp body saw. It cuts well for breaks and only good for crosscuts. I have Woodworkers II and Tenryu in my rotation and both have been refined many times. I was drawn to this blade because of the price, but in hindsight that was a mistake as it fell far short of the best blades in the furniture saw line. Save money on a top quality blade.

This is my second Freud Premier blade so will have a great blade on my table saw until the first one is sharpened. This blade cuts cleanly with minimal breakage when cross-cutting hardwoods like maple, walnut and hickory. I will also use it to cut hardwood faced plywood without worrying about tearing. When shredding hardwood, I'll swap out the blade for a ripping blade. The disadvantage of this blade is that it dulls faster due to the high ATB and only selected areas can be sharpened.

I have been using a Forrest II woodworking machine for about 10 years and am very happy with it. However, it has become very expensive, so I decided on a cheaper blade. This one is comparable. Cuts clean. Blanks can be glued together without joining. The cross cuts are good, but it is better to use a zero clearance insert. The cross on cherry and oak plywood will not splinter when using a zero gap insert. However, I had a broken tip after the first few uses. It's not clear how. No nails or dirt

I've had issues with Freud Blades, Dado Stack and 2 Teardrop Blades lately and while this blade can be used it doesn't do the marketing justice. The crosscut blade is excellent, which is to be expected from a quality crosscut blade. The tears are almost ready to glue. They're actually good enough for glue joints, but I wish there was a little less shading. The fusion was within 0.0005 inch of the corner slot. The stopper is within .004" of the angled slot and is intentionally offset slightly…

I bought this disc after seeing a good review in Fine Woodworking. I thought it might be an inexpensive alternative to the expensive Forrest blades I've been using for years. I had the blade installed for about 5 weeks and was overall impressed until yesterday it lost a tooth for no apparent reason. I've been woodworking for over 50 years and while I've seen blades damaged, I've never lost a tooth on a carbide tipped blade just from cutting wood. I will return the blade to Freud for assessment.

There seems to be a lot of blade snobs out there. Of course, if you're a pro who has to process tons of hardwood 5-7 days a week, spend $150 on a Forrest or Ridge Carbide. For just about everyone else it will rip and cut all your softwood, plywood, MDF, 2x4 etc. It's well made, thick steel, large teeth, fully sharpened, probably the same as higher quality blades. I get no tearing and am ready to glue thin Baltic birch plywood and all my cross sections with only 1.75hp. Engine. 2x4 copying is…

First, I use a lot of Freud blades, but this one didn't suit me. This is a new blade and has only had about 4 cuts of 12" each previously made. Attempted to break a 39" long 3/4" thick and 2 each 29" long 5/8" kiln dried S4S ash. With these cuts, the blade gets stuck halfway, leaving a slight burn mark on the cut. I had to plan the seam as it was too bad a cut for the glue line. Incidentally, I used a Freud LU 87 thin-cut glue joint before the Dewalt mobile table saw for sawing oak 6 x 5/4 as…

This is not a dedicated chop saw blade but new, it makes incredible chop cuts. Better than it should be. I've tried cherry, oak and pine, they're pretty easy to cut and it worked. I then tried different plywood products, some of which were covered with very thin veneers. All cuts were unassisted when the blade came out to see what it could do. No scoring, pre-cutting, gluing or other methods to minimize tearing. The lack of breaks was striking. Much better than my previous 50 combination disc…